Mt. Everest North Ridge Route

I climbed Everest three times- 2002, 2003 and 2008. My best was the Balcony at about 27,500' (8400 meters) before health, weather or my own judgment caused me to turn back. When not climbing, I cover the Everest season from my home in Colorado as I did for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 and now 2009 Everest seasons. This page details the North ridge route from Tibet. I have marked the camps and routes we used in 2002, 2003 and 2008. Some of these pictures are courtesy of Big Green Everest's North Ridge 2005 Expedition. Also see the South Col route map.

Everest North Ridge Route

click to enlarge

Elevations of the camps and time between them

base camp: 17000' - 5182m
Interim camp: 20300' - 6187m - 5 to 6 hours (first time)
Advanced base camp: 21300' - 6492m - 6 hours (first time)
North Col or C1: 23,000' - 7000m - 4 to 6 hours (first time)
camp 2: 24,750' - 7500m - 5 hours
camp 3: 27,390' - 8300m - 4 to 6 hours
Yellow Band
First Step: 27890' - 8500m
Mushroom Rock -28047' / 8549m - 2 hours from C3
Second Step: 28140' - 8577m - 1 hour or less
Third Step: 28500' - 8690m - 1 to 2 hours
Summit Pyramid - 2 hours
Summit: 29,035' / 8850m - 1 hour
Return to camp: 3 - 7 -8 hours
Return to ABC: 3 hours

Typical climb schedule

March 27 - Leave US
March 29 - Arrive Kathmandu, Nepal
March 30,31- Kathmandu
April 1 - Fly to Lhasa, Tibet (Elevation 12,000 ft)
April 6-7 - Lhasa sightseeing (Begin acclimatizion)
April 8 - Drive to Shigatse (12,500 ft)
April 9 - Drive to Tingri (Shegar) (13,800 ft)
April 10 - Drive to Everest base camp (BC) (17,000ft)
April 11-13 - Setup BC and acclimatize
April 14 - Trek to Interim camp (IC) (20,300 ft)
April 15 - Arrive at Advance base camp (21,300 ft)
Apr 16 - 27 May - Climbing Period (camps 2 & 3 Summit)
May 28 - Return to Advance base camp (ABC)
May 29 - Return to base camp (BC)
May 30 - Disassemble BC
May 31 - Drive to Nyalam Tibet
June 1 - Drive to Kathmandu
June 2,3,4 - Weather days or back in Kathmandu
June 5 - Depart for US

base camp (17,000/5666m) to Advanced base camp (21,300'/6400m)
BC, courtesy of Big Green Everest

From BC to ABC it is about 12 miles (22km) of rugged hiking on boulders, ice and snow. The route follows the Rongbuk Glacier until it merges
with the Eastern Rongbuk Glacier. ABC is on the northwestern side moraine of East Rongbuk Glacier, under the slopes of Changtse Mountain.
It normally takes 2 days for the first trip to ABC then 1 day after acclimatizion. ABC is the primary home for North Ridge climbers during the expedition.

ABC to North Col (camp 1) (23,000'/7000m)
South Col, courtesy of Big Green Everest The North Col camp is a 2,200' climb from ABC. The route starts on scree (loose rock) then moves to snow followed by increasingly steep slopes up to 60 degrees. Climbers use crampons and fixed ropes from now on. It takes between 4 to 7 hours to reach the North Col depending on acclimatizion and weather.

camp 1 to camp 2 (24,750'/7500m)
Climb to C2, courtesy of Big Green Everest

C2 starts the "high camps". The route is usually pure snow but can be rock since this section is known for high winds.
It should take about 3 to 5 hours to reach C2.

camp 2 to camp 3 (25,600'/7900m)
CLimb to C3, courtesy of Big Green Everest

Some expeditions do not use a camp 3 and go directly to 8300 m. At almost 8000m, most climbers now sleep on supplemental oxygen.
The climb is extremely windy and the tents are on small rock ledges since there is limited large and level areas. At camp 3, the wind is usually
blocked by the North Face of Everest so sleeping is easier. Climbers will take 3 to 6 hours to reach C3.

camp 3 to C4 (27,390'/8300m)
Climb to C4, courtesy of Big Green Everest

camp 4 (or camp 3 if the previous camp is skipped) is a short rest stop on the way to the summit for most climbers. At 27,390', you do not want to spend a lot of time here. Climbers will have some food and water, perhaps a short nap and start for the summit around 10:00PM. The Northeast Ridge is a few hundred feet above C4.

camp 4 to 2nd Step
2nd step, courtesy of Big Green Everest

The Northeast Ridge represent the most difficult climbing on this route. There are three "steps" or rock climbs along
the way. The first Step is difficult at this altitude but the second step is the most difficult involving a 10 foot rock climb to a
30 foot vertical wall. This is where the famous Chinese ladder is located that helps climbers. However this often is the source of
traffic jams that bring a summit bid to a compete stop.

Second Step to Summit
Summit Ridge, courtesy of Big Green Everest The Third Step is another straight forward rock climb but challenging at this altitude (nothing is easy anymore). Climber now spend the next hour to climb the steep
snowfields of the Summit Pyramid.

The Summit Ridge is short (500') but narrow with 10,000' drop-offs on both sides leading directly to the Everest Summit. At this point climbers
have spent 8 to 10 hours to summit. It will take another 4 to 6 to return to C3.

For deep insight into an Everest expedition, download
Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics report of my 2008 south side climb. It is a free PDF.

Click Here for New Everest Videos

Take the New Climbing Polls!


I climbed Everest three times- 2002, 2003 and 2008. My best was the Balcony at about 27,500' (8400 meters) before health, weather or my own judgment caused me to turn back. When not climbing, I cover the Everest season from my home in Colorado as I did for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 and now 2009 Everest seasons. This page details the North ridge route from Tibet. I have marked the camps and routes we used in 2002, 2003 and 2008. Some of these pictures are courtesy of Big Green Everest's North Ridge 2005 Expedition. Also see the South Col route map.
Everest North Ridge Route click to enlarge	Elevations of the camps and time between them base camp: 17000' - 5182m Interim camp: 20300' - 6187m - 5 to 6 hours (first time) Advanced base camp: 21300' - 6492m - 6 hours (first time) North Col or C1: 23,000' - 7000m - 4 to 6 hours (first time) camp 2: 24,750' - 7500m - 5 hours camp 3: 27,390' - 8300m - 4 to 6 hours Yellow Band First Step: 27890' - 8500m Mushroom Rock -28047' / 8549m - 2 hours from C3 Second Step: 28140' - 8577m - 1 hour or less Third Step: 28500' - 8690m - 1 to 2 hours Summit Pyramid - 2 hours Summit: 29,035' / 8850m - 1 hour Return to camp: 3 - 7 -8 hours Return to ABC: 3 hours	Typical climb schedule March 27 - Leave US March 29 - Arrive Kathmandu, Nepal March 30,31- Kathmandu April 1 - Fly to Lhasa, Tibet (Elevation 12,000 ft) April 6-7 - Lhasa sightseeing (Begin acclimatizion) April 8 - Drive to Shigatse (12,500 ft) April 9 - Drive to Tingri (Shegar) (13,800 ft) April 10 - Drive to Everest base camp (BC) (17,000ft) April 11-13 - Setup BC and acclimatize April 14 - Trek to Interim camp (IC) (20,300 ft) April 15 - Arrive at Advance base camp (21,300 ft) Apr 16 - 27 May - Climbing Period (camps 2 & 3 Summit) May 28 - Return to Advance base camp (ABC) May 29 - Return to base camp (BC) May 30 - Disassemble BC May 31 - Drive to Nyalam Tibet June 1 - Drive to Kathmandu June 2,3,4 - Weather days or back in Kathmandu June 5 - Depart for US
base camp (17,000/5666m) to Advanced base camp (21,300'/6400m) From BC to ABC it is about 12 miles (22km) of rugged hiking on boulders, ice and snow. The route follows the Rongbuk Glacier until it merges with the Eastern Rongbuk Glacier. ABC is on the northwestern side moraine of East Rongbuk Glacier, under the slopes of Changtse Mountain. It normally takes 2 days for the first trip to ABC then 1 day after acclimatizion. ABC is the primary home for North Ridge climbers during the expedition.
ABC to North Col (camp 1) (23,000'/7000m) The North Col camp is a 2,200' climb from ABC. The route starts on scree (loose rock) then moves to snow followed by increasingly steep slopes up to 60 degrees. Climbers use crampons and fixed ropes from now on. It takes between 4 to 7 hours to reach the North Col depending on acclimatizion and weather.
camp 1 to camp 2 (24,750'/7500m) C2 starts the "high camps". The route is usually pure snow but can be rock since this section is known for high winds. It should take about 3 to 5 hours to reach C2.
camp 2 to camp 3 (25,600'/7900m) Some expeditions do not use a camp 3 and go directly to 8300 m. At almost 8000m, most climbers now sleep on supplemental oxygen. The climb is extremely windy and the tents are on small rock ledges since there is limited large and level areas. At camp 3, the wind is usually blocked by the North Face of Everest so sleeping is easier. Climbers will take 3 to 6 hours to reach C3.
camp 3 to C4 (27,390'/8300m) camp 4 (or camp 3 if the previous camp is skipped) is a short rest stop on the way to the summit for most climbers. At 27,390', you do not want to spend a lot of time here. Climbers will have some food and water, perhaps a short nap and start for the summit around 10:00PM. The Northeast Ridge is a few hundred feet above C4.
camp 4 to 2nd Step The Northeast Ridge represent the most difficult climbing on this route. There are three "steps" or rock climbs along the way. The first Step is difficult at this altitude but the second step is the most difficult involving a 10 foot rock climb to a 30 foot vertical wall. This is where the famous Chinese ladder is located that helps climbers. However this often is the source of traffic jams that bring a summit bid to a compete stop.
Second Step to Summit The Third Step is another straight forward rock climb but challenging at this altitude (nothing is easy anymore). Climber now spend the next hour to climb the steep snowfields of the Summit Pyramid. The Summit Ridge is short (500') but narrow with 10,000' drop-offs on both sides leading directly to the Everest Summit. At this point climbers have spent 8 to 10 hours to summit. It will take another 4 to 6 to return to C3.
For deep insight into an Everest expedition, download Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics report of my 2008 south side climb. It is a free PDF. Click Here for New Everest Videos Take the New Climbing Polls!

Everest North Ridge Route

For deep insight into an Everest expedition, download Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics report of my 2008 south side climb. It is a free PDF. Click Here for New Everest Videos Take the New Climbing Polls!

For deep insight into an Everest expedition, download
Everest 2008: Mountain of Politics report of my 2008 south side climb. It is a free PDF.

Click Here for New Everest Videos

Take the New Climbing Polls!