Gear

You can prepare your mind. You can prepare your body. You can train all the time before a big climb but if you do not have the right gear, all is lost. I know one person who was only 100 meters from the summit of Everest assuming that rope was fixed and not carrying any. Sad ending when you miss the summit because of missing gear. The following is a list of the gear I draw from depending on the climb. I have honed it over 15 years of climbing and it works for me. A means it is always in my pack from a 14er to Everest. Thumbs Up means it is one of my favorites pieces that works unusually well and I have taken it it on multiple climbs and is highly recommended. The prices are US list. Check out on-line retailers like Backcountry, Moosejaw and Mountain Gear or eBay for better prices. Use Spadout to monitor for sales. My favorite bands include Patagonia, Mountain Hardwear and Black Diamond. First Ascent came on strong in 2009 with good reviews and bought top and bottom merino wool baselayers with good results. A new feature on the site are gear reviews. They represent my experience as a regular climber - not a professional - who is not sponsored and has always paid for all my gear except in tha few cases that are noted with . DISCUSSION FOR 2010* I tend to get cold easily. The key to staying warm is layers however over the years, I have changed my approach to layering since I tended to have too many layers at times. Today, it is rare for me to have more than 3 layers even in the most extreme conditions. First, I always wear a knit cap and at least liner gloves when I get the least bit cool - regardless of the outside temp. Then I use a 3 layer system of Merino wool base layer (top and bottom), heavier fleece as in the Mountain Hardware Power Stretch (a Farmer's John kind of suit) and/or just my Patagonia Guide Pants depending on how cold it is that day. Then my top wind or warmth layers are the Patagonia Micro Puff and/or Patagonia JetStream Shell. When the temps near 0F or the wind chill is below 0F, I replace the shell with my Feather Friends 850 Fill down jacket plus my BD Mercury mitts. I regulate my body temperature with my top layers plus use the Buff neck gator to manage airflow from my jacket. Finally, I only use jackets with hoods since it greatly aids managing heat flow from my torso. In the past two years, I have replaced most of my clothing with products from Patagonia. They are well made, light weight and bomber. If you catch them on sale, the price is reasonable but at whatever price, the quality cannot be beat in my opinion.

WHAT	PICTURE	BRAND MODEL US$ RETAIL COST	WHY & COMMENTS	Colorado 14'ers	Rainier 14,410'	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
Base Layer - moisture wicking
Long underwear Merino wool tops		Icebreaker First Ascent $70 - $95	cold. Can easily be top layer. Switched from Capiline to Merino wool since it wicks and maintains warmth better. Many good brands out there - as long as it is Merino wool. Read my review	X	X	X	X
Long underwear Merino wool bottom		Arc'Teryx First Ascent $65-$85	cold. Can be used as top layer. Use as base under MH Power Stretch Suit for additional warmth. Many good brands out there - as long as it is Merino wool.	X	X	X	X
Socks		Smartwool $13 - $20	I have experimented with dozens of brands and styles. Smartwool is the best for me. I use the liners plus the "mountaineer" socks for warmth at 6000m + and the "hiking" for treks and lower altitudes. Always have a spare pair in my pack.	X	X	X	X
Mid Layer - warmth through trapped air				Colorado 14'ers	Rainier 14,410'	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
Fleece Bibs		Mountain Hardwear Power Stretch $150	Extreme cold or wind. 2nd layer over Merino wool. A must have on 6000m and above. The MH Power Stretch Suit is very versatile as a live in layer for longer expeditions. Can be used stand alone as well - e.g. no base bottoms or top shells. Read my review			X	X
Down Vest		Patagonia Puffball $90	Extra layer for cold or wind around camp. Small and lightweight. Always in my pack. A nice backup.	X	X	X approach	X approach
Outer Layer - sun and brush protection				Colorado 14'ers	Rainier 14,410'	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
Polyester Shirt		REI $30 - $40	warm day hiking, Great for treks to base camp. One for in and a clean one for out. I like long selves for sun protection.	X	X	X approach	X approach
Polartec Long Sleeve pullover		Arc'Teryx $90	cool day hiking and base camp life. Wore the same "Delta Jersey" for most of Everest climbs - comfortable and warm			X camp life	X camp life
Pants		REI $60	Using brands with zip-off legs. Mostly nylon so dries quickly. Bad luck with TNF versions.	X	X approach	X approach	X approach
Top Layer - wind and rain				Colorado 14'ers	Rainier 14,410'	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
Gortex Bibs		Arc'Teryx Alpha SV $425	extreme wind and snow protection when temps are not brutal. I rarely use since my full down suit suffices along with 2 base layers but was a lifesaver on Aconcagua one year.		X	X
Pants		Patagonia Guide Pants $175	Strong lined pants that transition from low to high altitudes providing wind, moisture and cold protection. My only winter pants. Worth the price	X winter	X	X	X
Wind Shirt		Marmot Ion Wind shirt $50	Light wind protection. Weighs nothing but gives great protection in medium wind. Love the hood. Always in my pack	X	X	X	X approach
Hard Shell Jacket		Patagonia Jetstream $99 on sale $199 usually	Excellent wind and rain protection. New generation lightweight shell. Replaced heavier MH hardshell. Very warm with Pat Micro Puff (see below). Great hood. Always in my pack since it is so light. Worth the price.	X	X	X	X below 8000M
Softshell		Patagonia Micro Puff w/ Hood $157	Lightweight yet protects from rain, wind and extreme cold. Probably the single most useful jacket I own. This replaced the fleece jacket. Good to 8000m with a couple of layers underneath. Hood makes it all work. A great value! Read my review	X winter	X	X	X below 8000M
Down Layer - extreme wind and cold				Colorado 14'ers	Rainier 14,410'	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
Down Suit		North Face Himalayas Can buy on-line at TNF site or look at MH or Feather Friends $750 - $1,000.	Ultimate warmth for extreme cold and wind. Used on Everest, Cho Oyu and Ama Dablam. I prefer a one piece suit - warmer since it leaves no gaps at the waistline. But you loose flexibility that you get with separate top and bottoms.			X optional	X required
Down Jacket		Feather Friends Volant Jacket + Hood $340	Lightweight, extremely warm - with hood. 850 down fill. Great on Denali. Used on Everest to 8000m. Zipper kind of weak. Excellent combo with down pants. Nice pillow when stuffed in a small pillow case from home.		X	X	X below 8000M
Down Pants		Mountain Hardware Chugach 3D Pant $130	Great for BC or colder weather. Lightweight Polarguard pant. Could be summit gear on 7000m climbs with Gortex outer and Powerstretch base. I use for base camp pants all the time			X	X camp life
Head, Eyes, Feet and Hands				Colorado 14'ers	Rainier 14,410'	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
Wool Balaclavas and knit caps		Outdoor Research $35 ColdAvenger $80	head and face protection against cold and wind. It is a myth that 50% of your body heat escapes from the scalp so wearing a hat will keep your toes warm but I still wear and sleep with my knit hat most of the time.	X	X	X	X
Neck & Ear Warmer plus skull cap		Buff $30	neck, face and head warmth Absolutely my most frequently used piece of clothing due to it's flexibility and quality. Cover my mouth to warm cold air before breathing. Always in my pack. Read my review	X	X	X	X
Baseball Cap		Patagonia $5 -$25	sun protection during trekking. Long bill is good for face protection. Use bandanna under cap to drape over neck for sun protection.	X	X	X	X
Glacier Sun Glasses		Julbo Explorer* Colorado $70 - $150	required to prevent snow blindness. Use Explorer for extreme conditions and Colorado as backup. Must have the side eye protection. Always with me. *Julbo supplied the Explorers to me for evalaution.	X	X	X	X
Ski Goggles		Bolle $40 -$100	required during strong winds. Need to be polarized, easy on/off with 100% UV A and B. Forget anti-fogging, never works.			X	X
Liners, Outer and Windstopper gloves		Manzella $17 - $65	Any lightweight glove works to keep the wind and sun off but when I get colder then I switch to the Hestra's. Manzella tend to wear out quickly.	X	X	X	X
Climbing Gloves		Hestra Alpine Pro $160	Nice for ice climbing. Leather glove with wool lining that is warm, rugged and lasts forever with care. Love the durability and dexterity but find my fingers tips get cold in extreme conditions. Read my review	X	X	X	X
Alpine Climbing gloves		Black Diamond Mercury Mitt $80	Great value. Must for high altitude summits to prevent frostbite. Always in my winter pack or above 7000m+			X	X
Boots and Shoes				Colorado 14'ers	Rainier 14,410'	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
Sandals for base camp		Tevas and Crocs $20 - $80	relief from boots in mild weather and stream crossings in warmer weather
base camp Boots		Uggs Bloke $130	Sheepskin lined boots that are warm and comfortable. These are my only shoes at 8000m BC where gear is hauled in.			X	X
Double Plastic boots for ice climbing and alpine mountaineering		Koflach Arctis Expe $360	Extreme cold, crampon ready Warm and comfortable but took some getting used to! Replaced the liners after 5 seasons. An incredible boot. Used with overboots for high altitude with great success but time to upgrade after 10 years		X	X with Overboots	X with Overboots
Overboot		Forty Below K2 $130	Warmth when worn over plastic boots Used on Denali with Koflachs. Only use with crampons or snowshoes since soles are fabric and not Vibram			X	X
High Altitude Alpine climbing		Millet Everest-GTX Olympus Mons $900	Integrated boot and gaiter high altitude and extreme cold. A popular high altitude boot is the Olympus Mons Evo by La Sportiva. Carefully consider sizing with 2 pair thick socks and swelling at altitude.				X required
Lightweight trekking shoes		Sorrel, La Sportiva, Montrail $120	Never use the heavy leather boots anymore. Use these for approach and Koflachs or Sportiva for high altitude.	X	X	X approach	X approach
Booties		40 Below Synthetic Booties $60	relief from boots in the tent and to stay warm in sleeping bag. Get a model with sole for that quick walk across camp. However I never leave my tent in mine - use the Uggs			X	X
Collapsible ski poles		Black Diamond Trail Shock $110	trekking, helps wear on knees. Look for snap locks, not twist. Read my review	X	X	X	X
Sleeping Gear				Colorado 14'ers	Rainier 14,410'	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
0F/-18C Down bag		Mountain Hardwear Phantom 0 $420	use at lower camps or higher with other clothing. Very light at under 3 lbs. A down filled bag. I actually use this for high camps and the Western Mountaineering for BC.	X	X	X	X
-40F/-40C down bag		Western Mountaineering Bison Super DL $735	very cold nights, used at high camps or BC. Expensive and a little heavy at 4lbs 10 oz and bulky but I never get cold. A down filled bag. I actually use this for BC and the Mountain Hardware for high camps to reduce load weight.			X	X
Foam mat		Dense closed-cell foam $35	protection from snow, cold and rocks. Z-lite packs smaller than roll versions. Carry 2 - BC and high camps	X	X	X	X
insulated pad		Thermarest $40 - $100	air layer for cold protection and comfort. Full length, don't cheat with 2/3's length to save weight. Take 2- BC and high camps.	X	X	X	X
Pee bottle		Naglene $7	Pee inside your bag or tent. Pick different shape for easy grab in the dark. Large capacity 2L is best. A must!			X	X
Climbing Equipment				Colorado 14'ers	Rainier 14,410'	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
Helmet		Petzel Erin Roc $85	rock climbing or dangerous areas on Aconcagua, Ama Dablam, Rainier. Not used on many 8000m climbs except K2, etc. Better lighter models available now.		X	X
Harness		Black Diamond Chaos $75	attaching to ropes and pro Comfortable climbing harness with gear loops. Chaos is overkill for alpine climbs. BD Alpine Bod is good alternative.		X	X	X
Short Ice Axe for ice climbing		Black Diamond Cobra $680/pair	ice climbing Cobras are lightweight, well balanced and incredibly effective. Read my review		X depends on route	X depends on route	X depends on route
Long 75 cm Ice Axe for alpine climbs		Black Diamond Raven Pro $90	steep ice and snow on alpine routes. lighter shaft and clean picks. I am 5'11" so 75 cm was right length for me. Tape the top with duck tape and foam to prevent cold transfer to hands.		X	X	X
Climbing rope		Mammut Genesis 8.5mm, 60m $160	monitor for wear and ultraviolet light problems ... your life depends on it.	X	X	X	X
Crampons		Grivel G14 w Antibot $190	steep ice and snow. love 'em but keep them sharp. A solid product for ice and alpine climbing.		X	X	X
Locking carabineers Snap-link carabineers		Petzel/ Black Diamond $8	attaching to ropes. locking, twisting, snap.		X	X	X
Figure of 8 descender & ATC		Black Diamond $8	rappelling fixed ropes. Nice to have Super 8 for iced ropes and knots.		X	X	X
Ascender jumar with leashes		Petzel $60	climbing fixed ropes and protection. Get newest model with wide hand opening for large mittens.		X	X	X
Headlamp with lithium batteries		Petzel Tikka XP $20 BD Zenix IQ $50	Tikka for camp use and short hikes - great piece. Zenix IQ nice for alpine night climbing. Always in my pack.	X	X	X	X
Carrying and Shelter				Colorado 14'ers	Rainier 14,410'	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
Day or Summit Pack		REI Flash 18 Pack $30	This is a small, lightweight pack that is ideal for short summit climbs or day trips. It holds a hydration bladder plus the 10 essentials.Read my review	X
Trekking Pack		Black Diamond Shadow $99	The Black Diamond is a great summit pack, daypack for ice climbing, an overnight climb or just a walk-up. Great pack!!	X	X	X approach/summit	X approach/summit
Climbing Pack		Osprey Aether 85 5200 cu in/85l $279	I have used several brands of packs over the years and have reached the conclusion that there are many solid models out there from the major companies at great prices: Gregory, Dana, Arc'Teryx, Osprey and others. This Osprey is the most flexible and comfortable I have ever used, including expensive custom packs. Read my review		X	X	X
Duffle for air and yak transport		Gregory Duffle North Face $90 - $195	Get the heaviest fabric to avoid tearing by luggage handlers. Wrap crampons, axes sharp ends in duck tape and padding. Double bag powders. Put itinerary and gear list inside bag for TSA and use TSA approved locks.		X	X	X
Tent		North Face VE-25 $530 Big Agnes Seedhouse 2 $475	TNF VE-25 is still the best expedition BC tent ever but a little heavy at 10lbs. The Big Agnes Seedhouse Series is very nice 3 Season - inexpensive and lightweight. Read my review	X	X	X	X
Accessories & Misc.				Colorado 14'ers	Rainier 14,410'	6000-7000m Climbs Denali, Ama Dablam, Aconcagua	8000m Climbs Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma
Stove		Optimus Crux $75	Canister versions are much easier to light, control and use but you need to manage used canisters e.g. bring the empties back down. JetBoil is also popular. works well at altitude.	X	X	X	X
Water bottles and bladders		Nalgene $7 MSR $35	1 liter with cap attached to avoid losing it, get different shape and color for pee bottle! Highly recommend the MSR Dromedary Bag. It is heavier duty than Camelback and holds hot and cold well.	X	X	X	X
Bottle Parka		Outdoor Research $17	Must have for the Nalgene when at altitude or in deep freeze environments		X	X	X
Hydration		Thermos $35	must use at altitude to prevent frozen water bottles . Hot tea is wonderful during breaks high up!			X	X
Toiletries		Purell ethyl alcohol hand sanitizer $3	An absolute must in 3rd world countries. Bring several pocket size bottles and always keep with you. keep hands clean without water. teeth, hair, nails, etc. Don't forget Toilet Paper! I use the moist wipes instead of TP.	X	X	X	X
Medication	See your Doctor!	See your Doctor!	Aspirin or Acetaminophen or Tylenol with Codeine or Motrin or Ibuprofen pain and aches; Sudafed decongestant; Imodium or Lomotil diarrhea; Prilosec acid reflux; Cipro infection; Ambien sleep; electrolyte replacement, Diamox or Dexamethasone altitude	X	X	X	X
First Aid Kit		band-aids, gauze, moleskin, tape, iodine $25	always have small version with me	X	X	X	X
Bowl, cup and utensils for high camps		Spork $9	light weight. Spoon/fork only. best if tied to bowl with string. Don't forget cup and bowl. Nice to have your own and not share ...	X	X	X	X
Sun and lip protection		Dermatone Lip gloss Neutrogena Sunblock Dermatone Z-cote $3 - $10	must have and must use liberally on lips, face, nose, ears, hands. Sunblock must protect against UVA and UVB - read the label carefully - only a few brands do this. Neutrogena's UVA/UVB Sunblock Lotion is popular. Also Z-cote perfect for nose and lips at altitude. Always in my pack.	X	X	X	X
Pocket knife / leatherman		Leatherman $50	Multiple tools for repairs. attach to harness for quick access. get newest lightweight model	X	X	X	X
Drywipes		Moist wipes Action Wipes	workaround when no shower must have on any trip longer then 2 weeks. I use the baby wipes as TP at camp and the tougher Action Wipes for general clean-up.	X	X	X	X
Paperback books					X	X	X
Altitude watch		Suunto Vector $200 - $500	Time, alarm and altitude fairly accurate plus I can replace the battery. Love the log feature. Need to reset altitude daily. Alarm is weak.	X	X	X	X
Shortwave Radio		Grundig P 2000 $80	for staying current in remote places. Excellent for BBC and VOA. External wire for antenna improves reception.			X	X
Digital Camera		Canon G10 $500 Nikon D60 $300 - $800	Capturing those great memories use big zoom DSLR 200mm optical during approach and smaller 6X while climbing. 6mp is fine. Take several 2-4GB cards. Use video on point and shoot. It is good enough to replace dedicated camcorder unless you are into HD video.	X	X	X	X
Emergency Tracker		SPOT Satellite GPS Messenger $200+	Use to let family know I am safe when out of cell phone range. Plus nice to review track progress back home. Read my review	X	X	X	X
GPS		Garmin- eTrex Vista $300	easy, full featured navigation tool. Awkward on alpine trips due to lack of line of sight for the satellites. compass works fine. eats batteries	X	X	X
Compass			Liquid filled with mirror. when all else fails, set for return to camp	X	X	X	X
Small Towel			I always forget!	X	X	X	X
Music		Apple iPod Mini or Shuffle	gota have tunes. Don't use one with hard disc above 17,000' - it will fail - guaranteed due to air pressure being different from where it was manufactured. Failure may not be covered under warranty!	X	X	X	X
Batteries			no tunes or lights without power. Lithium are best for cold. Take a lot.	X	X	X	X
Bag for storage at hotel on expeditions			include a lock and white medical tape and felt pen for labeling		X	X	X
The 10+ Essentials			Extra clothing, Map, Water, Food, Compass, Headlamp with extra batteries/bulbs, First-aid kit, Sunglasses, Pocket knife, Sunscreen, Matches in waterproof container and firestarter PLUS Cell/Sat Phone, pencil/paper, whistle, space blanket	X	X	X	X
Technology - Hardware to Communicate Email, Dispatches
Hand held Radio		Yaesu	Excellent hand held radio that is lightweight, reliable and battery stingy.
Satellite Phone		Thuraya $600 - $1000	Coverage only in Asia, Middle East, Western Europe not Northern but more reliable then Iridium and Globalstar in my experience. Sign up with Fone Recharge for easy purchase of minutes from the phone. Per minute rates vary but are less than 1US$/minute. They have ISP service so you simply dial 1722 and your surfing at 9600 baud! Bgan is great at BC for fast data only transfers. Warning: Thuraya SIMs must be renewed annually so verify your subscription before leaving home.
Solar Panel		Solar Blatz Feather 20 $439	Amazingly simple and effective. Brunton also good brand. Make sure you calculate all the amperage needed for all devices laptops, camera, iPods, etc. Usually you use panel to charge a battery then recharge devices from the battery . I used the Feather 20 to keep my Sat phone charged - carried it with me in my day pack and to high camps - very lightweight. Can recharge anything with a 12V car adaptor. Click here for an excellent tutorial on solar panels
12V 7ma Battery		gel cell, approved for air transport	Must for cloudy days when panel will not work. Motorcycle size for limited charging. Full size for heavy use. Again, understand your amp load or you will be short. Batterystuff.com and Power-Sonic are good source for most of the power items listed on this page.
USB Recharger		BoxWave $45	must have for PDA. Uses AA battery power charging for times when solar not available high camps, cloudy/snowy days. Need the proper cable from recharger to device - look at the minisync connector.
iPod Solar		Solio $90	a nice solution for iPod, Cell phones, etc. Very popular. Tip connector can be modified to recharge Thuraya Sat phone. Still need Boxwave for cloudy days and backup since it uses AA batteries.
DC-AC Converter		Various $50	recharge laptop from battery. make sure the converter provides enough amps. Most Laptops need 3ma or more. Highly recommend testing extensively before you leave home using the solar panel and battery combos!
Cables		Various $5 - $25	You will need all sorts of male and female 12V cigarette lighter style and alligator clip cables to connect everything. Powerportstore is a good source.
PDA		iPAQ $300	Can replace Notebook when used with keyboard. Make sure the card slot supports your camera card e.g. SD more standard or Memorystick Sony only. This is required if you will email or upload images. Newest models have terrible battery life in cold temps so carry recharger and extra batteries.
Keyboard		Foldable Keyboard $80	A must for anything more than a quick note on the PDA. Lightweight, folds to same size as PDA, inexpensive. Works great on a flat and solid surface- a handy accessory.
Mini, Netbooks and Notebook Computer		Various $1000 - $2500	Can often only use a PDA/Keyboard combo. Small Mini Notebooks are often used now, not full size Notebooks due to weight. Useful for larger keyboard and display and for editing software. Compare battery life, weight, disc size and any special "rugged" features. Buy solid state hard drive (SSD) not moving disc (HDD) since HDD often fail at altitude. PDA does not use a hard disk and is more reliable. Same comments for Apple iPods with discs - use Shuffles or Mini instead
Multi-Meter		Radio Shack $20	must have for trouble shooting. *Bring at least three extra fuses for every fuse type you have. Also wire nuts, electrical tape and a variety of small screwdrivers*
Technology - Software
Blogging Server		Wordpress	Free software that runs on your server and enables automatic posting from PDA or PC
Image Management		Pocket Artist $50	PDA software that makes images smaller to speed upload time over sat phone
Email		Pocket PC	Included on most PDAs. Just configure for your POP mail server just like on your home PC
Server			Your website host. I use Hostway in the US
Audio Dispatch		HipCast	low cost service that links to your website allowing you to call a US number, leave a message and in less than a minute the world hears your voice on your site.
Always in my pack or on me from a 14er to Everest
Clothing	Eating and Food	Survival	Misc				WInter
Socks	Water	space blanket	pencil/paper				Ice Axe
Rain Pants	'Power' Bars	Matches, Lighter, Fire Starter	Cell/Sat Phone				Crampons
Soft Shell & Wind Shirt	TP	Whistle	Map				Shovel (depending on terrain)
Puffball Down Vest		Pocket Knife	Compass
Warm Gloves		Headlamp + batteries	First Aid Kit
Neck Buff, skull hat and cap			iPod :-)
Sunglasses			Digital Camera
Sunscreen, lip balm
shoelace, 10' line