Everest on May 21, 2011 and have climbed it three other times
(all from Nepal) - 2002, 2003 and 2008 each
time reaching just below the Balcony at about 27,500' (8400 meters)
before health, weather or my own judgment caused me to turn back.
I attempted Lhotse twice -
2015 and 2016. When not climbing, I cover the Everest season
from my home in Colorado as I did for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 and
the 2016 season. This
page is an overview of Everest climbs and an index for the other
pages with more information on routes, pictures, essays, trip
reports and more.
Everest is the most famous mountain in the world. Drawing climbers
for almost a century, it is know as Qomolangma Peak in Tibet and
Mount Sagarmatha in Nepal.
The north side was first attempted by a British team
in 1922. They reached 27,300' before turning back. The 1924 British
expedition with George Mallory and Andrew Irvine was notable for
the mystery of whether they summited or not. Mallory's body was
found in 1999 but there was no proof that he died going up or coming
down. It was a Chinese team who made the first summit from Tibet
on May 25, 1960 by Nawang Gombu (Tibetan) and Chinese Chu Yin-Hau
and Wang Fu-zhou who is said to have climbed the Second Step in
his sock feet.
However, the first summit of Mt. Everest was by Sherpa
Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Edmund Hillary with a British
expedition in 1953. They took the South Col route which is used
by the majority of modern expeditions. At that time the route had
only been attempted twice by Swiss teams in the spring and autumn
of 1952. They reached 8500m well above the South Col. Of note,
Norgay was with the Swiss thus giving him the experience he used
on the British expedition. The Swiss returned in 1956 to make the
second summit of Everest.
Today, hundreds of climbers from around world try
to stand on top of the world.
Recent years have been tragic with 16 Sherpas killed
in the Khumbu Icefall by a serac release on April 8, 2014 and 19
people killed on April 25, 2015 at Everest Base Camp from an avalanche
triggered off Pumori's ridge by a magnitude 7.8 earthquake almost
200 miles away in Nepal.
The Grand Dame of all Everest statistics, Ms. Elizabeth
Hawley reports on the Himalayan Database that there have been 7,646
summits of Everest through June 2016 on all routes by 4,469 different
people. 1,015 people, mostly Sherpa, have summited multiple times
totaling 3,861 times (included in the 7,646 total summits). The
Nepal side is more popular with 4,863 summits compared to 2,783
summits from the Tibet side. 197 climbers summited without supplemental
oxygen, about 2.5%. 14 climbers have traversed from one side to
the other. About 60% of all expeditions put at least one member
on the summit.
282 people (168 westerners and 114 Sherpas) have
died on Everest from 1924 to June 2016. Of the deaths, 109 died
attempting to summit without using supplemental oxygen. 70 climbers
died on the descent from the summit. The Nepalese side has seen
4,863 summits with 176 deaths through June 2016 or 3.7%. The Tibet
side has seen 2,783 summits with 106 deaths through June 2016.
or 3.8%. Most bodies are still on the mountain but China has removed
many bodies from sight. The top cause of death was from a fall,
avalanche, exposure and altitude sickness. 640 people summited
in Spring 2016 from both sides and there were 5 Everest deaths.
From 1923 to 1999: 170 people died on Everest with
1,169 summits or 14.5%. But the deaths drastically declined from
2000 to 2015 with 5,832 summits and 112 deaths or 1.9%.However, two years skewed the deaths rates with 17 in 2014 and 14 in 2015.
The reduction in deaths is primarily due to better gear, weather
forecasting and more people climbing with commercial operations.
Annapurna remains the most deadly 8000 meter mountain
with one death for every three summits (71:255) or 28% thru 2016.
You’re about to spend $10,000 or even $50,000 to climb the mountain of your dreams – but are you ready? Summit Coach
's consulting service can help climbers of all experience levels better prepare and increase their chances of a positive expedition. Based on Alan Arnette’s 23 years of high altitude mountain experience and 30 years as a business executive, we help aspiring climbers throughout the world achieve their goals through a personalized set of consulting services.
The menu at the top of each Everest page
- Pictures from
the climbs are organized in six albums by the trek in, base camp,
Khumbu Icefall, Lhotse Face, South Col and Above and a Best of
- Videos from my Everest
- Alan's Khumbu Trek, 2002, 2003, 2008 and 2011 summit Climbs with
an overview and dispatches sent during the climbs
- Coverage and commentary of the Everest 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 , 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013 and 2014 climbing
- 6 essays on topics from money to family to death
- Extras including Everest
for Kids, Musical
Slide Show and Pictures of the South
Col Route plus the Northeast
Ridge Route map and Communications
- Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)about
climbing Mt. Everest, Khumbu
Trek and 8000m
Everest 2002 Climb
In 2002 I attempted Everest using the Southeast ridge route. This
was my most difficult climb thus far due to the length of the
trip, logistics and health. I reached 27,200' (8250m), a personal
record, before turning back just below the balcony due to a lung
infection. It was a fabulous trip that I never anticipated making
when I starting climbing seven years earlier.
There were 155 summits in 2002 with 2 deaths.
Continue reading about the Everest 2002
Everest 2003 Climb
I returned to Everest in 2003, to attempt the South side again.
While it was incredible to be back only ten months after my 2002
climb, it was a big disappointment with altitude sickness and
weather problems. I knew about halfway through I would not summit
so I reset my goal to go as high as I could - safely - and reached
27,200' (8250m), the exact same spot as 2002.
There were 267 summits in 2003 with 4 deaths.
Continue reading about the Everest 2003
Everest 2004 Coverage
Over 337 climbers reached the summit on all routes, 99 on May 16
and 17 alone!. 169 summiteers were clients, 169 guides and Sherpas.
There were 7 deaths. By far, Sherpas have summited Everest more
than any other category of climber. The most sought out Sherpas
have summited 5 or more times and know the routes, conditions
and how to deal with Westerners.
Continue reading about Everest in 2004
Everest 2005 Coverage
Quite a season! The summits on May 21 were the latest first summit
day in 45 years of climbing Mt. Everest. Norgay and Hillary did
it on May 29, the earliest was April 4 in 1984. But it was still
a good year for summits with 307 climbers standing on the top of
the world. Sadly there were 6 deaths.
The season started quickly with teams arriving early and getting
their acclimation trips in by early May. They were assuming a "normal" season
with first summits around May 15. But the Jet just sat there. It
didn't move and when it did, it came back so quickly that the 3-day
window never materialized. So the climbers sat in base camps. Some
went down valley to enjoy the rich air and sleep on real beds,
some went on sight seeing trips to nearby Monasteries and other
just sat there. But they entertained themselves with chess games,
concerts, hockey games and swap meets. These climbers are creative
if nothing else!
Continue reading about Everest in 2005
Everest 2006 Coverage
The season started with controversy as the political unrest in
Katmandu delayed many expeditions and created uncertainty that
gear and climbers would arrive on time. However it all got sorted
as seasoned leaders guided their teams through the bureaucracy,
small arms fire and chaos that comes with a country in turmoil.
But by early April base camp on both sides were established and
teams got settled in. However there was a huge surprise for this
season! The weather was spectacular and teams on the north took
advantage of it by aggressively fixing the ropes to the summit
It was a record year for summits with 479 reaching the top from
both sides but there was also 11 deaths, the most since 1996.
Continue reading about Everest in 2006
Everest 2007 Coverage
The season started early - late March - with the arrival of the
huge IMG team closely followed by the Xtreme Everest Medical
expedition into Nepal. Over on the north it seemed that Hollywood
had moved to Tibet for April and May.
Dispatch after dispatch spoke of their "film crew" and
some climbers were worried about their bad hair days. But one climber
stood out - David Tait. The British climber was on a mission to
raise money for his charity by attempting the never before accomplished
double traverse. He began posting his thoughts, fears and observation
in a rarely seen candid manner.
It was another record year for summits with 632 reaching the top
from both sides but there was also 7 deaths.
Continue reading about Everest in 2007
Everest 2008 Climb
I returned to Everest in 2008, to attempt the South side again
as part of The Road
Back to Mt. Everest . I had trained hard with four previous
high altitude climbs in the prior 8 months. I felt great the
majority of the climb but felt it was too dangerous for me to
continue and turned back at the Balcony or 27,500' (8300m) which
was 1535 ' short of the highest point on earth. This was my highest
altitude ever reached.
I have written an extensive document on the experiences during
this climb as impacted by the Chinese Olympic torch summit and
closure of the north and heavy restrictions on the south side.
It is a PDF document named Everest
2008: Mountain of Politics
426 people summited in 2008 with only 1 death.
Continue reading about the Everest 2008
Everest 2009 Coverage
Overall this was one of the safest seasons in the past few years
in spite of some difficult weather that created a long delay
in early May. There were over 400 summits and sadly 5 deaths
on Everest and one on Lhotse.
Similar to 2008, the Chinese Tibet Mountaineering Association
(CTMA) changed the rules and gave vague guidance to teams during
the critical planning period resulting in almost all of the major
north side operators making the switch to Nepal. That fueled speculation
of overcrowding, bottlenecks and record summits and record deaths.
And in the end it was just speculation.
462 summits and 5 deaths.
Continue reading about Everest in 2009
Everest 2010 Coverage
By recent standards, Everest 2010 was a safe and successful year.
There were about 537 summits (347 from the south) with 3 reported
deaths, all on the north, and several injuries and rescues. The
total Everest summits broke the 5,000 level since 1953.
This year's story line for climbers and their families was the
weather, however it was all Jordan Romero and Apa Sherpa for the
rest of the world.
For the first time in several years, the north operated in an
almost normal manner. Teams dealt with a few border restrictions
early but arrived at base camp and immediately began their acclimatization
On the South, the ropes were in early and the weather seemed
drastically different from the North, at least in April.
reading about Everest in 2010
I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 from the Nepal side in 2011
with International Mountain Guides. This was part of The
7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer's: Memories are Everything® campaign.
It was very humbling standing on the summit after all my attempts
but more gratifying was the reaction to my Alzheimer's awareness
and fund raising efforts. Thank you everyone who participated.
I approached this climb quite differently from previous attempts
including preparation, to training to guide service and more.
The Himalayan database states there were 535 combined summits
from both sides 58% summit to climbers at base camp. 4 deaths.
Read the live updates
from Everest 2011
Everest 2012 Coverage
Perhaps the most dramatic year since 1996. A lack of snow combined
with high winds created dangerous rock fall on the Lhotse Face
causing many injures primarily to Sherpas before the route was
moved to a safer passage to Camp 3.
However, these dangers plus the deaths of three Sherpas early
in April from multiple causes, caused the Sherpas from Himex to
lose confidence. Russell Brice, arguably the most famous of the
Everest commercial operators, cancelled his entire Himalaya spring
season (Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse) taking over 100 people off
the mountain. It was an unprecedented decision.
The other teams continued fighting difficult weather on both sides
of Everest and with only four days of suitable weather for summit
pushes endured the famous crowds at the normal bottle necks of
the 2nd Step, and the Hilary Step. Totally unrelated to the crowds,
weather or rock fall, 6 more climbers died primarily from poor
decision making or altitude related illnesses generating sensational
headlines around the world and calls for regulation on Everest.
The Himalayan database states there were 551 combined summits
from both sides and 10 deaths.
reading about Everest in 2012
Everest 2013 Coverage
Everest 2013 was a good year for most climbers but a difficult
one for the professionals. Overall it could be termed a normal
year with little drama with one large exception.
There were an estimated 658 summits in the Spring of 2013, 539
on the south and 119 on the north. 8 confirmed deaths.
For many climbers, they accomplished a life long dream, returned
safely home to a family who have started to breath again. With
an unparalleled lifetime experience, for some their lives were
reading about Everest 2013
Everest 2014 Coverage
The The Everest 2014 season was full of tragedy with 19 deaths,
shameful exploitation and thin coverage of the real story by the
general media. In my season summary, I look at what happened, the
reasons for effectively closing Everest from Nepal, the roles played
by all parties and some ideas on a credible path forward.
The summary is not a sound bite, it is long, complicated and will
take time to digest. Just like anything with Everest it will evoke
emotions and reactions. My hope is for badly needed changes on
Everest. A mountain I value and whose climbers I admire - past,
present and future.
There were 121 summits from the North and 4 from the South. There
were 19 deaths on the South.
reading about Everest 2014
Everest 2015 Coverage
Another tragic season but this time due to an earthquake,
not climbing events. 19 people were killed at Everest Base camp
then the Chinese closed the North fearing aftershocks. Nepal continued
to promote climbing but no team wanted to risk going back through
For the first time since 1974, there were no Spring
summits on Everest from any route, any camp by any means.
reading about Everest 2015
Everest 2016 Coverage
Everest 2016 was a success by many measures. Climbers
achieved life long dreams and a country got a break. It was a ‘normal’
season with 640 summits but sadly there were five deaths
plus one on Lhotse.
However in stark contrast to the previous four
years on Everest, 2016 lacked large scale tragedy or extreme
reading about Everest 2016
Everest 2017 Coverage
This is one of the more difficult seasons I have covered to sum up in one word
so let me use several: wind, tragedy, misinformation, spin and summits.
Overall it was a good year, a normal year with many summits on
both sides plus the average death toll. I think we saw how the
pressure to be first with news can backfire with incorrect stories
but we also saw the power of dreams.
Similar to 2016, there were no natural disasters or issues with
people getting along, other than a few individuals acting very
irresponsibly and selfishly.
While weather forecasting proved to be challenging across the
entire two month season, it was not an inhibitor to teams reaching
Finally the fear of overcrowding, dangers of the Khumbu Icefall
or China closing Everest forever, proved unfounded.
Bottom line - it was good year on Everest and for both Nepal and
China, and for hundreds who quenched a long thirst to stand on
the summit of Mt. Everest.
I estimate over 600 summits form both sides with 475+ from Nepal
and 160+ with Tibet
South Col Route Map
Mt. Everest was first summited by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and Edmund
Hillary with a British expedition in 1953. They took the South
Col route which is described on this page. At that time the route
had only been attempted twice by Swiss teams in the spring and
autumn of 1952. They reached 8500m well above the South Col. Of
note, Norgay was with the Swiss thus giving him the experience
he used on the British expedition. The Swiss return in 1956 to
make the second summit of Everest. Nepal was closed to foreigners
Today, hundreds of climbers from around the world
use this route to try to stand on top of the world. It is considered
slightly more dangerous than the North Ridge Route due primarily
to the instability of the Khumbu Icefall. However some considered
it slightly easier than the north due to the absence of the ladders
and rock climbing on the steep steps of the North Ridge route.
Read more details
on the South Col Route
Northeast Ridge Route Map
The north side of Everest is steeped in history with multiple
attempts throughout the 1920's and 1930's. The first attempt was
by a British team in 1922. They reached 27,300' before turning
back and was the first team to use supplemental oxygen. It was
also on this expedition that the first deaths were reported when
an avalanche killed seven Sherpas.
The 1924 British expedition with George Mallory and Andrew Irvine
is most notable for the mystery of whether they summited or not.
Mallory's body was found in 1999 but there no proof that he died
going up or coming down.
It was a Chinese team who made the first summit from Tibet on
May 25, 1960 by Nawang Gombu (Tibetan) and Chinese Chu Yin-Hau
and Wang Fu-zhou who is said to have climbed the Second Step in
his sock feet however without a summit photo, some doubt the summit
claim. In 1975, a second summit was climbed by the Chinese and
the ladder on the Second Step was installed.
Tibet was closed to foreigners from 1950 to 1980 preventing any
further attempts until a Japanese team summited in 1980 via the
Hornbein Couloir on the North Face. The north side started to attract
more climbers in the mid 1990s and today is almost as popular as
the South side when the Chinese allow permits. In 2008 and 2009,
obtaining a permit was difficult thus preventing many expeditions
from attempting any route from Tibet.
Read more details on the Northeast
Summits - updated December 2016
Early Attempts and Summits
- The first attempt was
in 1921 by a British expedition from the north (Tibet) side
- The first summit was
on May 29, 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary from New Zealand and
Tenzing Norgay, a Sherpa from Nepal. They climbed from the
south side on a British expedition lead by Colonel John Hunt.
- The first north side summit
was on May 25, 1960 by Nawang Gombu (Tibetan) and Chinese climbers
Chu Yin-Hau and Wang Fu-zhou
- The youngest person to
summit was American Jordan Romero, age 13 years 11 months,
on May 23, 2010 from the north side.
- The oldest person to summit
was Japanese Miura Yiuchiro, age 80 on May 23, 2013
- The first climbers to
summit Everest without bottled oxygen were Italian Reinhold
Messner with Peter Habler in 1978
- The youngest male to summit
was American Jordan Romero, age 13 years 10 months, on May
23, 2010 from the north side.
- The oldest male to summit
was Japanese Miura Yiuchiro, age 80 on May 23, 2013
- Apa Sherpa and Phurba
Tashi both hold the record for most summits (male or female)
with 21, the most recent one in 2013
- American Dave Hahn has
the most non-Sherpa summits with 15, the most recent in 2013
- The first woman to summit
Everest was Junko Tabei of Japan in 1975
- The oldest woman to summit
was Japanese Tamae Watanabe, age 73, in 2012 from the north
- The youngest woman to
summit was Indian Malavath Purna, 13 years 11 months on May
25, 2014 from the south side
- 489 women have summited
through June 2016
- Nepali, Lakpa Sherpani
holds the women's summit record with seven (1 South, 6 north)
- There have been 7,646
summits of Everest through June 2016 on all routes by 4,469
- 1015 people, mostly Sherpa,
have summited multiple times totaling 3,861 times (included
in the 7,646 total summits).
- The Nepal side is more
popular with 4,863 summits compared to 2,783 summits from the
- 197 climbers summited
without supplemental oxygen through June 2016, about 2.5%
- 14 climbers have traversed
from one side to the other.
- 504 climbers have summited
from both Nepal and Tibet
- 282 people (168 westerners
and 114 Sherpas) have died on Everest from 1924 to June 2016
- Of the deaths, 109 died
attempting to summit without using supplemental oxygen.
- Of the 282 deaths, 70
died on the descent from the summit or 25%
- The Nepalese side has
seen 4,863 summits with 176 deaths through June 2016 or 3.6%
- The Tibet side has seen
2,783 summits with 106 deaths through June 2016 or 3.8%
- Most bodies all are still
on the mountain but China has removed many bodies from sight.
- The top cause of death
was from a fall, avalanche, exposure and altitude sickness
- About 60% of all expeditions
put at least one member on the summit.
- From 1923 to 1999: 170
people died on Everest with 1,169 summits or 14.5%. But the
deaths drastically declined from 2000 to 2015 with 5,832 summits
and 112 deaths or 1.9%.
- However, two years skewed
the deaths rates with 17 in 2014 and 14 in 2015.
- The reduction in deaths
is primarily due to better gear, weather forecasting and more
people climbing with commercial operations.
See more stats at this page
*courtesy of the Himalayan
Database, 8000ers.com and
my own research
Based on my own experiences, I worked on these skills before attempting
- Gained climbing experience to be as self sufficient as
possible. All the climbing techniques and skills should be in
your muscle memory and not a conscious thought
- Preparing my body to be in “Everest Shape” which
is beyond "the best shape of your life"
- Building mental toughness to push yourself while being
willing to turn back for safety
CLIMBING SKILLS - knots and roped team travel
- crampon skills - ice axe skills including self arrest in all
types of positions - crevasse rescue techniques
CAMPING SKILLS - extreme cold weather clothing
techniques - packing what you need; not what you want
PHYSICAL TRAINING - stamina, cardio, strength,
breathing techniques - understanding how your body performs at
altitude preferably at 8000m before going to Everest
MENTAL TRAINING - getting along in close quarters
with strangers for 2 months, teamwork
These pages are based on my own experiences:
Frequently asked questions and 8000
meter mountains Frequently Asked Questions
Side Route Overview
Side Route Overview
description of my first Everest South Climb in 2002
full report of my Everest South Summit in 2011