"One of the world's most respected chroniclers of Everest" — Outside Magazine

Alan
Arnette

Climber · Coach · Writer · Advocate

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37
Major Expeditions

23 years covering
the world's highest peaks

Summiting Everest in 2011, and K2 in 2014 at age 58 — becoming the oldest American at the time — Alan Arnette has spent two decades as both a high-altitude climber and the most trusted independent voice in mountaineering journalism.

This site is a record of that journey: 37 major expeditions on seven continents, thousands of pages of trip reports, gear guides, expedition dispatches, and the real stories behind every Himalayan season.

Climbing the world to end Alzheimer's.

Full biography →
01
✍️

Writer

Authoritative Everest coverage since 2004 — 23 consecutive seasons of updates, analysis, and no-hype dispatches trusted by a million+ readers annually.

02
⛰️

Climber

Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Denali, Aconcagua and 30+ more. Every expedition documented with photos, essays, and honest accounts.

03
🧭

Coach

Independent Summit Coach for climbers at every level — from first 14ers to Everest and K2. No guide service agenda. Your success is the only goal.

04
🎤

Speaker

Captivating talks on peak performance, Alzheimer's awareness, and the leadership lessons of extreme mountaineering — for corporate, academic, and nonprofit audiences.

Active Season

Live season coverage — 23rd consecutive year

From the Blog

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Everest

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Photo Galleries

Community

Alan Arnette on the summit of K2 holding a photograph of his mother Ida
Summit of K2 · July 27, 2014 · His 58th Birthday
Alan & Ida — 28,251 feet
Forthcoming Memoir

Hard or Impossible?

Summiting K2 for Ida

“Alan Arnette took on K2 — the most dangerous mountain on earth — not for himself, but for his mother and the fight against Alzheimer’s. This is a story about what real purpose looks like at altitude.”
Ed Viesturs — The only American to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen
58
Age on K2
7
Continents summited
$500K
Raised for Alzheimer’s
1 in 4
K2 climbers don’t return
From Chapter 1 · Gasping for Air

“A surge of debilitating fatigue overtook me. My shoulders drooped. I stared at my yellow boots, crushed by disappointment… My ice axe fell onto the snow. It was 12:30 a.m. on July 27, 2014 — my fifty-eighth birthday.”

Read the Memoir Page → 53,000 words · Foreword by Jim Davidson

Watch the latest video

May 21, 2026 · Everest 2026

Everest 2026: Record Summits, My Summit Anniversary & My Memoir

274 summits on the Nepal side in a single day — a new record. Plus: a personal narrative of Alan's summit night on May 21, 2011, and the announcement of his K2 memoir.

What viewers are saying
V
Viewer on YouTube

"Your narrative of the summit night gave me chills. I felt like I was right there on the ridge with you."

M
Viewer on YouTube

"Best Everest coverage on the internet. No hype, just what matters. Can't wait for the memoir."

R
Viewer on YouTube

"I've followed you since your Everest climb. The way you tell these stories is unmatched — pure storytelling."

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The only coach with
no agenda but yours

As an independent coach, Alan doesn't work for any guide service. The goal is simple: help you choose the right objective, the right team, and the right plan — for your goals, your experience level, and your life.

🗻

Objective Selection

Matching your experience and ambitions to the right peak — honestly, not optimistically.

🤝

Guide Service Vetting

Independent evaluation of operators, costs, safety records, and team fit.

📋

Training & Preparation

A personalized plan covering physical, technical, mental, and emotional readiness.

Visit summitcoach.org →
When I came to Alan, I had absolutely no climbing experience, and I only dreamed of climbing Mount Everest as a teenager. Despite my initial inexperience, Alan provided me with all of the insights and training I would need to summit Mount Everest at 19. He guided me every single step of the way, all the way to the top.
Ryan Mitchell Summited Everest at age 19, 2024
Alan has extensive knowledge and experience in mountaineering, and provided valuable advice based on my individual profile. He helped me choose the right guiding company and gave me key insights on technical, physical and mental preparation. The knowledge and help from Alan played a key role in the success of my Everest climb.
Yinghong Summited Everest, 2024

Alan Arnette
on Audio

In-depth conversations on mountaineering, high-altitude climbing, Alzheimer's advocacy, and the stories behind the expeditions. Available on all major platforms.

Lessons from the edge
of the possible

After 37 major expeditions, Alan brings authentic stories and hard-won insight to corporate audiences, nonprofits, and universities. His talks connect the mental and physical demands of extreme mountaineering to real-world leadership, resilience, and purpose.

His casual yet powerful style brings audiences into the high-altitude world with stunning photography, video, and personal storytelling — leaving them entertained, educated, and motivated.

Peak Performance Leadership Under Pressure Alzheimer's Awareness Risk & Resilience Goal Setting
Visit summittalk.org →
20+Years speaking
37Major expeditions
1M+Annual site visitors
23Years covering Everest

Climbing the world to end Alzheimer's

Alan's climbing career has been driven by a deeply personal commitment to Alzheimer's research and awareness. This cause is at the center of everything he does on and off the mountain.

Alzheimer's Cause →