Alan Arnette
CLIMBER · COACH · WRITER · ADVOCATE
29 years of climbing and covering the world's highest peaks
Summiting Everest in 2011, and K2 in 2014 at age 58 — becoming the oldest American at the time — Alan Arnette has spent almost three decades as both a high-altitude climber and one of the most trusted independent voices in mountaineering journalism.
This site is a record of that journey: 36 major expeditions on seven continents, hundreds of pages of trip reports, gear and guide reviews, expedition dispatches, and the real stories behind each climb and every Himalayan and Karakorum season.
Climbing the world to end Alzheimer’s.
01
Writer
Authoritative Everest coverage since 2002 — 24 consecutive seasons of no-hype dispatches trusted by a million+ readers annually.
02
Climber
Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Denali, Aconcagua and 30+ more. Every expedition was documented with photos and honest accounts.
03
Coach
Independent Summit Coach for climbers at every level — from first 14ers to Everest and K2. No guide service agenda. Your success only.
04
Speaker
Captivating talks on peak business and personal performance, Alzheimer’s awareness, and the leadership lessons of extreme mountaineering for any audience.
Everest at 54
After three previous attempts in 2002, 2003, and 2008 — each raising Alzheimer’s research funding — Alan reached the summit of the world’s highest peak on his fourth attempt at 29,032 feet at age 54.
K2 at 58
Becoming the 18th and oldest American to summit K2, Alan climbed the world’s most dangerous mountain for his mother, Ida and the fight against Alzheimer’s — raising research funding across every expedition.
Major
Mountaineering
Seven continents. Eight 8,000-meter peaks. 58 Colorado 14,000-foot peaks. A lifetime of purpose-driven climbing.
From the Blog
Denali 2026 Coverage: Podcast with Summiteer – John Bartolic
The Denali 2026 season is well underway, with a dated climber report as of June 1, 2026, of 513 climbers, mainly on the West Buttress route. 97 climbers have completed their trips, and 381 are left to check in and begin their climbs. One team that did summit was one from American Alpine Institute and Summit Coach client, John Bartlic
John, a Southwest Airlines pilot living in Dallas, Texas, is relatively new to mountaineering, with a Rainier summit last year and a Pico de Orizaba summit a few months ago. His next includes Kilimanjaro and Everest. We discussed everything from motivation, training, gear, clothing and weather to logistics and had a special remembrance of Mayor Stubbs of Talkeetna, Alaska, who died in 2017. I met Stubbs in 2007 on a climb. #Denali2026
If you would like to be notified when my memoir, “Hard or Impossible? Summiting K2 for Ida is available – I’m still looking for an agent. Complete the form at the bottom of this introduction page: https://www.alanarnette.com/memoir
Everest 2026: Missing Sherpa Found Alive
After six days isolated above base camp, Dawa “Hillary” Sherpa, 52, was found alive after rescuing himself. He had fallen into a crevasse near Camp 1 at around 19,500 feet, was trapped for two days, crawled out and then descended the Khumbu Icefall despite the ladders having been removed. He was found by members of the SPCC staff, Bhim Bhattarai and Durga Rai, in an extremely weak condition near Crampon Point, but conscious. He has frostbite on his fingers, is verbal, and is now in a hospital in Kathmandu in good condition. #everest2026
If you would like to be notified when my memoir, “Hard or Impossible? Summiting K2 for Ida is available – I’m still looking for an agent. Complete the form at the bottom of this introduction page: https://www.alanarnette.com/memoir
Everest 2026: Season Summary – Records, Crowds, Trash & Winds
Welcome to my annual Everest summary, where I review what happened and who did what. Quirky. That’s my word for Everest 2026. Or perhaps, “normal.”
The 2026 Everest spring season has come to a close. There were delays, strong winds, changing drone and helicopter rules, moments of concern and challenging climbing. Despite the dramatic headlines in the mainstream press, it was actually a fairly normal season, as evidenced in part by roughly 80% of this year’s 1,008 summits occurring between May 17th and May 26th, consistent with historical trends. The Himalayan Database will publish what I consider to be the definitive results later this year. #everest2026
If you would like to be notified when my memoir, “Hard or Impossible? Summiting K2 for Ida is available – I’m still looking for an agent. Complete the form at the bottom of this introduction page: https://www.alanarnette.com/memoir
Everest 2026: May 31 Weekend Update – Record Season Over & 1 More Death?
The 2026 Everest spring season has come to a close, marked by delays, strong winds, changing drone and helicopter rules, and challenging climbing – yet despite the dramatic mainstream press headlines, it was actually a fairly normal season. As usual, there were reports of frostbite and helicopter evacuations, but many of these incidents went unreported to avoid negative publicity. There are reports today that a Sherpa “was left to die at C3.” Oh, and record permits and record summits, including 274 on one day! I’ll post my season summary and wrap-up in a few days. #everest2026
Everest 2026: : Last Summits?
We might have the final commercial summits in sporadic wind episodes, with more predicted. The no Os climbers had mixed results, as did the runners. Popular American no O’s climber, Justin Sackett, turned back near the Balcony, while Kristin Harila summited with no Os—also, an update on what qualifies for a no-supplemental-use-of-oxygen climb. The Icefall Docs say they will remove the ladders on the 29th. The final total for the Everest- Nepal side summit will most certainly top 1,000, including members, guides and Sherpas. #everest2026
Everest 2026: Another Wave of Summits
We had at least 50 more summits on Monday morning, May 25th, 2026. I’m estimating there have been over 900 summit in total by members, guides and Sherpas. With only a few teams left, we are seeing the end of the season coming into view in breezy conditions, with those left targeting the 27th. The Icefall Docs say they will remove the ladders on the 29th. #everest2026
Hard or Impossible?
Summiting K2 for Ida
“Alan Arnette took on K2 — one of the most dangerous mountain on earth — not for himself, but for his mother and the fight against Alzheimer’s. This is a story about what real purpose looks like at altitude.”Ed Viesturs — The only American to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen
“A surge of debilitating fatigue overtook me. My shoulders drooped. I stared at my yellow boots, crushed by disappointment… My ice axe fell onto the snow. It was 12:30 a.m. on July 27, 2014 — my fifty-eighth birthday.”
53,000 words · Foreword by Jim Davidson
Watch the latest video
Alan’s YouTube channel covers Everest, K2 and more climbing seasons, with personal expedition narratives and mountaineering insights. Subscribe to be notified of new videos.
“Your narrative of the summit night gave me chills. I felt like I was right there on the ridge with you.”
“Best Everest coverage on the internet. No hype, just what matters. Can't wait for the memoir.”
“The way you tell these stories is unmatched — pure storytelling.”
Alan Arnette
on Audio
In-depth conversations on mountaineering, high-altitude climbing, Alzheimer’s advocacy, and the stories behind the expeditions. Available on all major platforms.
Lessons from the edge
of the possible
After 36 major expeditions, Alan brings authentic stories and hard-won insight to corporate audiences, nonprofits, and universities. His talks connect the demands of extreme mountaineering to real-world leadership, resilience, and purpose.
His casual yet powerful style brings audiences into the high-altitude world with stunning photography, video, and personal storytelling — leaving them entertained, educated, and motivated.
As an independent coach, Alan doesn’t work for any guide service. The goal is simple: help you choose the right objective, the right team, and the right plan — for your goals, your experience level, and your life.
A coach with
no agenda but yours
“When I came to Alan, I had absolutely no climbing experience, and I only dreamed of climbing Mount Everest as a teenager. Despite my initial inexperience, Alan provided me with all of the insights and training I would need to summit Mount Everest at 19. He guided me every single step of the way, all the way to the top.
“Alan has extensive knowledge and experience in mountaineering, and provided valuable advice based on my individual profile. He helped me choose the right guiding company and gave me key insights on technical, physical and mental preparation. The knowledge from Alan played a key role in the success of my Everest climb.
♥ Nearly $500,000 raised
for Alzheimer's research
Across 36 expeditions on seven continents, Alan has raised nearly half a million dollars for Alzheimer’s research and awareness — in memory of his mother Ida, who passed from Alzheimer’s on August 16, 2009.
- • No cure · Always fatal
- • 3rd leading cause of death in the US
- • New case every 68 seconds worldwide
- • Impacts 7M+ in the US, 25M+ worldwide