Summit Plan Updates – Fin Race is Cancelled (updated)

The situation on the south side of Everest continues to be quite fluid.

I have confirmed Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies’ update that Ann-Marie will NOT attempt the summit during this narrow window. Phil had already kept the rest of his team back at base camp. They are planning on using the longer weather window in the forecast about a week from now.

The situation is simply too dangerous according to Phil:

The main focus of our expedition is safety and after receiving the weather update today from our American forecast service, which still predicts high winds for the 16th and 17th, and consulting the Swiss forecast that our friends have, we have decided to bring down Anne-Mari and Pasang Wongchu Sherpa to base camp for safety reasons. The Swiss forecast has advised that the narrow window they had previously predicted has now closed and that there are dangerously strong winds predicted for the previously suggested good dates.

Anne-Mari and Pasang Wongchu are currently at camp three and will descend in the morning after breakfast. We know Anne-Mari’s so called rival in the first Finnish female race for the summit, is also at camp three, and although this could probably take the prestigious title away from Anne-Mari, we believe that the safety of our two climbers is more important than being first.

All of our team members and Sherpas realize that reaching and returning from the summit safely is our foremost priority and we are glad to concede the race that has become dangerous and at times too deceptive for our liking.

We wish all the climbers pushing for the narrow summit window a safe and speedy ascent and we hope that both the forecasts we have been consulting are wrong in their predictions.

At least one team, Dream Guides (Kenton Cool) have said they will delay their summit push until Monday, May 17th due to continuing high winds. Unclear if this means leaving the South Col on Sunday or Monday. However, the Hanesbrands team of Jamie Clark is continuing with their climb and leaving camp 2 for camp 3 according to their latest update on their site.

Look for all the teams to make their final decision once they are at the South Col based on the most current forecast and their own observations.

Jordan Romero’s team now looking at a summit on May 21/22 within the longer weather window. They are leaving Chinese Base Camp, on the north, in a day or so.

Crowds are always a topic of discussion and planning on Everest. The good news about this next anticipated window starting around May 20th is that is appears long enough that teams can stage their bids; however, as we are seeing, climbers are quite eager this season!

Update:

Peak Freaks has posted this update:

The weather seems to be cooperating with the forecast so far. If it continues to read true for tomorrow the first wave will climb to the South Col, sleep on oxygen and push for the summit arriving early morning on the 16th. This plan puts the lesser of the winds on the way down which is the case scenario for safety for both them and their back-up team

I just read a post that Carina’s competitor has been called down to base camp. I also read a couple of things we will clarify.

Altitude Junkies leader Phil Crampton posted that there was a gentlemen’s agreement that didn’t work out suggesting it was between he and Tim stating both of them should start the girls at the same time from the South Col. I asked Tim about this. There was no such agreement, only joking comments on how that might be an unusual way to climb Everest. Another post from Alan Arnette’s site posted that Ann-Mari’s supporting Finns at base camp are calling deceit on our team.

I think it is clear or should be that each expedition operates independently. It would be ludicrous to suggest that we would compromise our entire teams chance at the summit and our logistics based on another leaders decision and a competition between two climbers. They announced they were holding back for the late window, we opted for the earlier one based on crowd control strategies. Our intentions with the night flight was as mentioned earlier to lessen the pressure on our member. Though we knew she would still be clumped together with our support network at the end of the day, it helped relieve her anxiety to get out there on the mountain and we supported her. It was the medicine for her at the time and it seems to be paying off so far.

Click to read the full entry from Sky Climbers and Altitude Junkies that Peak Freaks is referencing.

Alan