We can summarize the week in one word: weather. After the excitement of summits on May 5th and 7th, teams on both sides watched this week as the jet stream sat parked on the summit of Everest creating a huge plume of ice crystals that provided second thoughts on going to the summit. But first a quick update for today, Sunday, on Everest.
Teams are progressing higher with reports of acceptable winds for the moment. There could be 50 or more climbers on the south and perhaps the same number on the north since the ropes were fixed to the summit yesterday.
In reviewing the week; almost every expedition has access to state of the art weather forecasts, sometimes more than one. That is the good news. The bad news is they don’t always agree with one another. Thus comes into to play the experience and judgment of the climbers and expeditions leaders.
Teams are always concerned about the crowds on Everest in these modern times, so they think through the time to climb to avoid getting stuck in a conga line of a hundred climbers and using up precious oxygen while being exposed to harsh winds or cold. Some choose to go early, some late. Large teams will sometimes coordinate to avoid the large ques up high.
Against this backdrop, a brief but solid summit window was in the forecast starting on May 15. It looked to be about 48 hours long with winds dropping sufficiently for a safe attempt. Another longer window was also visible to all the teams starting around May 22nd. So a decision was presented to the teams – now or then. Go for the short window with a concern of it closing faster than anticipated or wait for the longer one and risk that it not materialize or when it does, the rush for the summit creates delays.
As is usual in life, there is no one answer so we saw teams select both windows.
Several small teams felt they could move quickly and positioned themselves at camp 2 in still windy and difficult conditions. Teams on the north, frustrated not only with the weather but also contended with no fixed ropes in place above camp 3. So, strong minded climbers, left ABC with the intent of climbing to the summit without fixed ropes utilizing a technique called a running belay which uses ropes and anchors that move along with the climbers.
Meanwhile most of the large commercial teams were content to wait for the second window and relaxed down valley in tea houses or at their base camps.
In the middle of this weather discussion a mini-drama played out between two Finnish women climbers; both looking to be the first Finnish woman to summit Everest. With intrigue and suspense, they shadowed one another to camp 2, then to camp 3 before stopping the competition based on different interpretations of the weather forecast. One returned to BC waiting for the next window and one is currently on her summit bid.
By the time the window came, climbers were already at camp 3. The next move was to the South Col for a few hours and then for the summit bid which should take anywhere from 6 to 10 hours one way. Early reports from the Col showed cold and windy conditions but still teams sounded optimistic they were going for it.
However, one by one word came that they were delaying for 24 hours as the wind picked up. This meant an extra night at the South Col for some climbers. While not desired it is not too bad since they will stay on a low flow of supplemental oxygen almost all the time. Twice I spent two consecutive nights at the South Col and the worst part was squeezing four grown men in a three person tent – up close and personal to be sure!
So today, Sunday night in Nepal, teams are on their summit attempts that would have them on top of the world, early Monday May 17th morning.
It is similar on the north with several climbers, now mostly individuals left for dwindling teams banded together to make a summit run. It was reported that there were four north summits and the Chinese have fixed the rope to the summit.
Checking in of one of the most followed climbing this year, 13 year-old Jordan Romero; he and his small team are now on their summit bid and are at ABC. They expect to summit around the May 21/22.
We will hear the results of all the summit attempts soon since this weather window was expected to close on late Monday as the winds pick back up implying the climbers would be back to at least the Cols for Monday night. I will post updates on this site.
Looking into the next week, teams will begin moving up the mountain to be in position for the next window currently forecasted to begin around May 22nd.
Climb On!
Alan
