North Summits and South Push (update 4)

update #4: Multiple teams are reporting summits this morning in Nepal. I estimate well over 30 summits from the south, probably much more.  Weather was holding as of early morning. Congratulations and well done to all. The tracking chart is updated based on available information but so please check their sites for details on their sites and a summary later here.

update #3: teams at South Summit.

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update #2. First reliable update directly from the climbers. Sounds like wind is not an issue. However, some teams have asked their slower climbers to wait for next weather window since winds are expected to pick up Monday afternoon.  Also I added part of the Jagged Globe team to summit push. At this pace, look for summits from 7 to 9 AM Nepal time (see sidebar for current time)

Could be a lot of people up there according to this from Jamie Clark:

Above The Balcony, moving slow due to crowds. Enjoying star light, heat lightning in the distance.

update #1: No solid updates from anyone attempting the summit Sunday night, now Monday morning as of 3:00 AM. By now, climbers should be above the Balcony. If winds were a big issue, we probably would have heard about by now. The next milestone will be at the South Summit where high winds, if present, usually cause teams to consider returning to the South Col. So far so good.

We have new Summits! On the north, the Chinese team topped out while fixing the ropes to the summit according to Adventure Dynamics. This opens the door for all the climbers during the large summit window anticipated next week. And it looks like the South teams have begun their summit push from the South Col.

Over 50 climbers and Sherpas were seen climbing the Lhotse Face on Friday and Saturday looking to take advantage of the predicted short summit window this weekend. As they began to go for their summit bids on Saturday night, the winds picked up thus postponing the effort. Now it is early evening on Everest and teams are on their way right now.

Michale Fagin of everestweather.com said the conditions were good that afternoon. Note that this is a snapshot and conditions can change quickly above 8000m.

Sunday May 16, 3 pm Nepal time estimated summit winds of 30 to 40 mph (48 to 64 km/hr), mostly clear. Temperatures -20 F (-29 C)

This is bit high and could be uncomfortable for some climbers. There are reports of new snow on the Triangular Face which leads to the Balcony. A little new snow actually makes the climbing a bit easier as long as there is not too much. With all the traffic, a path will be worn in quickly.

Patrick Hollingworth posted an informative audio dispatch from the North Col saying he took 11 hours to go from camp 3 to the South Col which is normally a 4-6 hour climb max. He had issues with his oxygen mask and cold feet. He also noted the effort to return the body of Russian climber, Serguey Duganov, who died on Lhotse last week. The routes are the same near the Yellow Band.

He felt there were no summit attempts on Saturday night. His plan is to go for the summit leaving the Col 8:00 PM Sunday night. He is climbing with a small Sherpa team only from Himalayan Ascent. I like his post for many reasons but you feel his emotion in this 8 minute update.

Kenton Cool of Dream Guides posted this report:

All the team are now at Camp 4. We are resting on oxygen and attempting to get as much food and fluid down us as the forecast is showing that the winds will be returning shortly, so, if we are going to go for it, it’s tonight or not again for another week. It’s currently snowing which doesn’t make for great underfoot conditions on the ascent but we have a really strong sherpa team with us who will be helping me break trail (nobody has managed to summit yet this weekend so the trail is under quite a bit of snow). Wish us luck and let’s hope the next update has some good news.

Jamie Clark and Scott Simper of the Hanesbrands team report planning on leaving the South Col via these tweets:

Scottie, Sherpas, and I in Camp IV. Winds calmed down nicely last night. Trying for summit tonight. We will have radio darkness for a few hours, but will hear from us at The Balcony and share our Steps to the Summit.

The Malta Everest team also posted they are leaving for the summit around 9 local time.

During summit pushes there are long times with no communication. Climbers normally stop at the Balcony and South Summit to update their status back to base camp via radios. Then the base camps updates website if that is their process. But many will simply report a summit or a return to the South Col in the event of a turn-around. So all this is to say, no news is most often good news.

On the north, we know there were teams and climbers making bids on the north the same time as the Chinese so there were probably summits from Western climbers but nothing official at this point. I assume there are summit bids on that side tonight as well. Remember there are more teams on that side than I list on the charts and many do not communicate with the world like commercial expeditions.

Looking forward, the Adventure Consultants team makes this note of the next weather window:

Meanwhile for the AC Team the Everest weather game continues as we try and tune into the time period for us to head up. Long term weather forecasts indicate that we may have to wait longer than initially planned and forecasted wind speeds for the 22nd and 23rd have increased. Timing one’s summit bid is the crux call of the expedition. Many other teams are in the same situation as us waiting for fair winds that will allow us to have a good time up high.

This is a day or so later than previously thought. There is no huge issue but it could compress the schedule and increase the crowds as teams try to summit before the monsoons move in. Traditionally the Icefall Doctors stopped maintaining the Icefall route on May 31st, but this is dependent on the overall situation and not a hard rule. The north side teams climb well into early June every year since there is no Icefall to deal with.

I will update this post as I receive new information and post the Weekend Update as well later today.

Best of luck to all the teams on the Hill tonight.

Climb On!

Alan