Everest 2013: Weekend Update March 31

The last week of March has been busy for the Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse climbers. Many left home, arrived in Kathmandu and have already started their trek towards their respective base camps. But many more will arrive this next week following closely behind in their journey.

Not many trekkers and climbers post blogs after Namche due to slower, advice expensive Internet connections, if they can find them at all. Some will use their smart phones to post a quick Tweet or Facebook post but most are now settled in to enjoy the experience, leaving us back home to dream.

Overview

As we approach April, it is time to review the overall schedule. In general both the north and south side expeditions can be divided into thirds: travel to Base Camp, acclimatization climbs, and summit push.

Right now teams on the south are trekking to Base Camp and those climbing from the north will not cross into Tibet until April 9th. Both sides will begin their acclimatization climbs between April 10th and 20th depending on their overall schedule. Look for the first western summits to occur in mid May probably from the south.

This is the overview for the western climbers, for the Sherpas it is entirely different. Many Sherpas have already arrived at Base Camp to build tent platforms, setup the multitude of tents and prepare for the influx of climbers. As soon as the fixed lines are in, those same Sherpas will ferry tents, food, fuel, oxygen bottles and gear to stock the higher camps.

The fixed lines on the south are historically put in by a dedicated team of Sherpa through the Western Cwm to Camp 2 and by the climbing teams from there to the summit. On the north in recent years, Tibetan climbers from the CTMA manage the ropes. They arrive early to be ahead of the climbers.

The past few years, the north side has lagged the south by a couple of weeks. However, remember that the north side does not “close” and can support climbers into early June before the monsoons arrive. The South has a hard stop at June 1 due to melting ice and snow in the Icefall making it very dangerous.

We can expect reports of the upper mountain conditions in mid April and perhaps first summits by the Sherpas fixing line as early as May 1.

Living the Trek

While the Sherpas are working hard, the climbers are also working hard but in a different way. The trek to Base Camp is a critical part of the acclimatization program. In addition, it is also one of the most memorable parts of the entire expedition.

Walking the well worn dirt trails brings a clarity to your purpose. There are no cars to distract you, no mountain bikes to dodge; only zo and yak trains that become a friendly change of pace with their loud bells and swishing tails.

Passing by other trekkers or Sherpas, you greet each other with a gentle “Namaste” which literally means “bow me you” or “I bow to you.”

The chilly mornings give way to warm days and the lunch break becomes welcome. A time to catch up with your teammates, rest your feet and enjoy a simple meal of rice and potatoes. Momos are a favorite!

It is difficult not to look up all the time in spite of the rocks on the trail that can grab your ankle with no notice. But the mountains are so high, so large; snow covered with light clouds floating beside their summits, you stare wondering where this has been all your life.

Small children often line up outside their simple home as you pass through their village. Their smiles and laughs are contagious as they play with a simple plastic bottle or sticks. Some are dressed for school, looking smart in the clean uniforms. They don’t ask for handouts any more but a simple writing pen for school will produce many tiny hands.

Few people talk as they trek, not because of the altitude, even though it is becoming more serious; but rather each is lost in their own thoughts. Trying to solidify what they have just seen, making sense of what is happening to them.

Music through earbuds is common but also to walk quietly listening to the low hiss of the rushing Dudh Kosi river in the deep ravines. The occasional gorak (raven) will soar overhead sending out a screech to let you know you are not alone. If you are lucky, you will see a Himalayan Tahr, perched on a high cliff or a musk deer grazing nearby.

Trekking the Khumbu changes lives. It is a gift.

Pending Arrival

I have updated the location page showing who is in Kathmandu and who is already on the trek. This is a rough estimate right now. However, not everyone is in Nepal or Tibet as Bob Kerr posted yesterday:

We were dropped off at the airport in plenty of time by my parents and got all of my luggage checked in now. Still some final tweaks to do but that’ll get done in London. It was nice to be seen off at the airport by my parents. Sarah and I are currently relaxing with a glass of wine then we’ll be London bound. Flight 1 of ?. I say of ? because there has been a last minute itinerary change sent through this morning as the Tibetan border crossing will not open until 9th April. Obviously this is not an ideal situation but we are at the mercy of the Chinese so will have to cope with it.

This not unusual for the boarder to remain closed as the Chinese like to control the traffic so as not to coincide with historic days of revolutions or protests.

Mountain Management

Eric Simonson, of IMG, has been reporting for over a week on the work of the Icefall Doctors as they progress higher. He says the IMG base camp is almost ready for their climbers to arrive.

Russell Brice sent out his first newsletter of the season saying everything is on track. This will be his 39th commercial Himalayan Expedition and 18th on Everest. Russ spoke of last year’s difficulties and the loss of the leader of the Icefall Doctors:

After Everest last year I vowed to try and help the SPCC – Ice Fall Doctors with equipment and training. This took a small back ward step with the death from old age of Ang Nima who was the leader of the Ice Fall Doctors. I am sure there will be a ceremony for Ang Nima at BC this year. However, despite this three of the SPCC team went on a mountaineering training course with the Khumbu Climbing Centre which I am sure will be reflected in the route through the Ice Fall this year.

He noted that Lowa has donated boots for the Icefall team.

Tim Ripple of Peak Freaks reports on efforts to reduce the crowds on the south side:

One of them is an effort that is currently being put forth to fix the mountain ahead of it’s typical schedule with the thought that more climbers can be pushed through earlier lessening the overcrowding situation of a small window. Interesting how this will play out considering the jet stream has more to do with the window of opportunity than rope. As part of this aggressive approach the ice-fall doctors have already completed fixing the route with rope ladders to Camp 1. The Lhotse face is slated to be fixed in just a couple days.

In speaking with many of the leading guides over the past few months, all agree that the crowds are a problem but there is not an agreement on how to solve the problem. Almost everyone agrees that limiting climbers, establishing a quota, lottery for summit days would not be in the interest of the climbing community.

The primary wild card is, as Tim points out, the weather. 2012 was somewhat of an anomaly with only four summit days (days with low winds) as compared to eight to twelve during previous seasons. Obviously by squeezing all the climbers and Sherpas into a tight window, any bottleneck will be magnified. 

The large western commercial operators usually coordinate summit attempts but not everyone participates thus when one large team, of 20 or 30 climbers goes for the summit, it can amplify the crowding problem. Also, there are usually two or three multi day windows but it is hard to avoid going on the first window for fear of missing out entirely. Overall, it is a complicated environment with little certainty.

Look for teams to continue higher spending comfortable nights in the villages of Tengboche, Periche and Lobuche. For many, they will be climbing the trekking peak of Kala Patar at 18,192’/5545m and enjoy the incredible view of Everest up close and personal.

Let me close with this post from RMI Guide Mark Tucker. Even though he has seen all this before, it still touches him deeply as he took his trekking team to the summit of Kala Patar:

Can’t tell you how many times I have done this climb, it never gets old, and is always a thrill. The view of Mount Everest does not get any better than from that vantage point, no wind and clear cannot be beat. For me to look up at the summit and think of all the time and effort I have spent over the years on that beast,  brings me so much emotion it is hard to convey. The connection you make after you summit Mount Everest is a bond forever. I take pride in sharing what I have learned through my 15 expeditions over here with every team. I felt the mountain helping me, while also keeping tabs.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

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