Everest 2015: Gratitude for the Khumbu

As I walked up Namche Hill yesterday, healing I found myself alone. The tall pine trees waved in a steady breeze. The well worn dirt path held the memories of so many who have passed before.

My own memories took over as I thought about my first climb up this infamous Hill in 1997. Now, drugstore 18 years later, discount I felt the same excitement, the same sense of how unique and special the Khumbu is and, while there is progress for the people, the spirit remains intact, full of loving kindness.

We left Kathmandu on time (a rare occurrence) and the 25 minute flight to Lukla was mostly uneventful except for the sharp turbulence as we crossed the high ridge, barley 500 feet off the earth. The snow covered Himalaya were to the left, showing us that winter was still strong up high.

Lukla

As we approached Lukla, I strained to see the runway, but all of a sudden with the skill of a Top Gun pilot, we hit the runway hard – a true carrier landing if there ever was one. With the runaway, a short 1,729 feet, the airplane needed to stop quickly as the landing strip has, well, an abrupt ending into the side of a mountain. There is no opportunity to “go around” if the landing is missed.

With the successful landing, we made our way over to have breakfast before starting the first leg of our 10 day trek to Everest Base Camp. The route is obvious, with many trekkers and climbers both returning from their trek and other starting. Our team, Madison Mountaineering, is in the middle of the Everest/Lhotse climbing teams headed to Base Camp. We plan on taking a safe 10 day schedule to ensure solid acclimatization before we get serious about gaining altitude.

Our first night in Phakding was welcome even though it was only a short three hour walk. Most of us were still adjusting to the time change. In fact, I enjoyed a four hour afternoon nap, what a luxury!  Also I met a new friend in the lodge.

Our team represents 10 different countries. I like the international flavor.

We left Lukla at 9,334 feet and lost 810 feet, the only time this will happen until we return in late May, well other than descending during the climb. As I walked, I made sure I focused on the moment. It is often so easy to think about the past – you know the could of, would of, should of’s in life; or the future, what’s next, what tomorrow will bring, plans, hopes, dreams. But for me, this moment was all about gratitude for being here again.

A Feast for the Eyes

The rhododendrons, choke cherry trees and magnolias were in full bloom as spring was just touching the Khumbu. The trail was full of Zos, with their bells clanging announcing their arrival. Trekkers from across the globe carefully navigated the rocky trail going slowly uphill and downhill, eyes fixed on the next step. They too were living in the moment.

Looking up was rewarded with snow covered 20,000 foot peaks. Smooth hill tops to craggy, sharp summits, they all held a special place. It seemed that in the foreground of each view, a string of prayer flags protected those below and those above.

We stopped for tea and again for lunch before entering the Sagarmatha National Park proper. Our permits were checked three different times between Lukla and Namche. I was pleased to see almost no trash – candy wrappers, soda bottles, etc. on the trail. Waste containers were regularly placed with signs asking people to “keep the Khumbu clean”. It seems to be working.

Namache

After about five hours, we approached Namche Bazaar, the informal capital of the Khumbu. It has grown significantly since my first visit. We are staying at the Panorama Lodge where Garrett has stayed for years. It is clean with individual rooms complete with toilet and shower. Quite civilized compared to some of the other lodges.

The Lodge is filled with part of our Sherpa team. Also here is Kami Rita Sherpa, who was on our K2 team last summer. Kami Sherpa (Ang Chhiring Sherpa – Pangboche), whom I summited Everest and K2 with and will be climbing Lhotse will arrive tomorrow. Such special people in so many ways. I am so glad to see them again.

I remember describing my first trip here to my mom, Ida. She listened intently and asked many questions about how the Sherpa people lived, the role of the women, how the kids were raised. In later years, she never remembered I went to Everest but I enjoyed telling her the same stories all over again.  I think she would have been pleased to know I returned so many times.

We are here for three nights, adjusting to the altitude of 11,280 feet. We will take walks each day to help the process along. Hopefully we’ll get our first view of Everest and Lhotse today from the Everest View Hotel, about 45 minutes walk up hill for the Lodge.

So, I’m happy to be here. I’m grateful for another opportunity to visit this special place, to see these unique people. Yes, all is well.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

Note, while we have Internet, uploading large video files is a problem thus this one is smaller. I hope to keep making these videos as long as the local Internet service allows. If this one cuts off, I’ll reload later today.

Please consider joining ??Alzheimer?’s Prevention Registry. Joining does not obligate you, just provides you the opportunity. Many trails are questions and surveys. Open to anyone over 18 worldwide. 80% of all al trails fail due to lack of volunteers http://bit.ly/1HONXgl