Everest 2017: Climbing the North Side with Jon Gupta, an Interview

A lot of attention is given to the Nepal side of Everest. It has more people, the risks are promoted heavily by those guiding from the north and of course, it was the side that saw the first summit back in 1953. And the north side has it’s share of fans, some perhaps even rabid these days.

But one small team this year is just a guide, his member and two Sherpas. This was the usual profile for years as the north side was less expensive, had a wild feel to it and, by many testimonials, is a harder climb than the south.

With all this in mind, Jon Gupta from Brynrefail in Snowdonia, North Wales, is one of the many guides hoping to get their member to the top safely. Jon’s company, Mountain Expeditions, is leading his member who has already summited Everest from the south. In 2012, Mollie Hughes became one of the youngest Britons at 21, to summit Everest and now has her sights on the north. Read this interview to get to know Mollie.

According to Montane, by the age of 28, Jon had summited numerous major peaks including: Island Peak 6189m (7 times), Denali 6196m, Ama Dablam (6 times), Korjenevskaya 7134m, Communism 7495m and Khan Tengri 7010m and Everest 8848m. In 2012 Jon became the first person to summit Ama Dablam 3 times in 7 days, all from basecamp, including the second fastest recorded solo speed ascent.

So with this background, let’s meet this 30 year-old who now lives in Bristol (which I’ve visited a few times!)

Q: When did you start climbing?

I first tried climbing and camping in the mountains whilst in the Scouts aged around 12 – 15. I don’t remember falling in love with rock climbing specifically at that age but I do remember the adventures related to camping, climbing/abseiling, being in the mountains, reaching summits and the feeling of being free and away from school!

Q: Do have a favorite between diving, skiing and climbing?

It’s a tough one between skiing and climbing – but days which involve both are truly the best. Ski in, climb, ski out. It doesn’t get any better for me. I work a lot in the mountains, however I don’t work as a ski guide or ski instructor so if I’m skiing it’s always for fun. I’m very much a winter boy and chase the winter seasons around the world skiing, ice climbing and mountaineering. In recent years I have spent a lot more time rock climbing in the UK and in Europe which has been really nice.

Q: Do you have a favorite UK climb?

The UK has so much diverse rock climbing to choose from – so, on rock it will have to be a sea cliff…so something like Rock Idol (E1 5a) in Pembrokeshire. It is such a good climb in an amazing situation right above the sea. I am equally a big fan of the lesser travelled esoteric climbing which normally requires a long walk in and possibly an ice axe to get safely out of the top slopes! In winter, Scotland offers some of the best mixed and ice climbing in the world (when its good!) and is very character building climbing! Some of the big mountaineering routes are superb – such as Tower Ridge or Skye Ridge. I don’t have a favourite route as such but I would be happy walking into anything good and steep on the north face of Ben Nevis. Scottish mixed climbing is so so good!

Q: How about a favorite alpine climb?

When I was much younger a friend and I climbed a route called the Kuffner Arete (D, 4C) in the Mont Blanc Massif. It is a big long mountaineering route at a reasonable grade, but at the time was the biggest most committing alpine route I had climbed. We stayed in the tiny Forche bivi hut on a ridge which felt really remote and the views of the Italian side of Mont Blanc were staggering! We climbed the route on a perfect weather day, feeling like heros.

Q: Jon, how did you find yourself in the Everest guiding business?

I would not say I was in the Everest guiding business. As an UK based expedition leader and outdoor instructor, I relish variety in my work and am very fortunate that I get to travel a lot and climb all over the world, for work and pleasure. I would like to think I am open minded about most things, including the more commercial aspects of the mountains and Everest. I am sure I will be back again in the future, hopefully a few times, but I am not planning on advertising big commercial trips or desperately pulling in members to get back to Everest each year. As and when I have members that are ready and keen for the climb then I will return again.

Q: You support Brain Tumor Support, would you tell us why you choose that charity?

This trip isn’t linked to any charities from my side, however my member is raising money for Cancer Research UK as part of her climb this year. Over the past few years my company has run many challenges and events for Charities in the UK. The challenges help raise thousands of pounds for the charities in question. Brain Tumor Support are a local charity to where I grew up and we ran a number of events together back in 2013 and 2014.

Q: You recently did a BBC documentary, India: Nature’s Wonderland, what was the overall message to the audience from that special?

Yes! This was something a little different for me, but I enjoyed it and the programme was a huge success. The overall message from the documentary was an insight into one of the most culturally and environmentally diverse countries in the world. I personally covered topics directly linked to the Himalayas and the knock on importance of the mountains, glaciers and rivers to India and its ecosystem. I also touched on topics of religious importance as well as some of the animals that are especially adapted to live in these extreme environments.

Q: You are climbing the North, why that side?

My member Mollie summited from the south in 2012 and she wanted to climb Everest again but from the other side.

Q: The North is getting more crowded with some teams fleeing the south due to perceived danger and crowds. Does that concern you with respect to climb times and backups during the summit push?

I am of course very aware of the ever increasing numbers on mountains such as Everest. It looks like this could be a record year for people on the mountain – let’s hope the weather is good!

Our small strong team comprises of myself, Mollie, Lhakpa Wongchu Sherpa and Lila Bahadur Tamang Sherpa. All of us have summited Everest before, and the two Sherpas have over 20 summits between them I believe. Mollie and Lhakpa summited together in 2012 so it’s really great to have as part of our team.

With such a small strong team it is my hope we can move efficiently around the mountains and do our best to avoid any potential bottle necks or queues on summit day. We can be responsive to the weather and what other bigger teams are doing. Mollie is also a competent climber and has a good understanding of what it is like up near the top which helps a lot.

Q: You are guiding Mollie Hughes, 1:1. What are the dynamics of guiding a private member compared to a larger team?

I think it could be hit and miss for some guides and members. The important thing is to know each other really well. I have known Mollie for a few years now and we have climbed together quite a bit. We get on really well and have a mutual respect for each other. We even did a charity indoor ice climb together where we climbed 8848m over a 24 hour period – which was pretty tough going but we did it!! (Thats over 1000 repetitions of the ice wall in London!).

On expedition with larger teams, logistics are always a challenge and the members would expect to spend much less time or little time on the hill with the guides. By keeping things small and tight, and having top drawer sherpas with us, we hope to be a strong unit and hopefully a successful one.

Q: Any closing thoughts on alpine guiding these days?

I am not a qualified IFMGA Guide so I can’t guide in the Alps in Europe. But as far as worldwide expedition leading goes I think it’s the best job in the world. Some mountains are incredibly popular and it’s all too easy to get upset about ethics and who should / shouldn’t be on the mountain. But this amounts to a tiny number of well known mountains – even in the UK there are hills that very very few people would have ever heard of which see almost no summit or climbers per year. The mountains are a very special place to spend time and if you know where to look you can find the experience you are after…with members or without.

Jon tells me that they are hoping to have an innovative tracking system in place with a 3D mapping company that will be posted on their Facebook Page in the next few days. They are hoping to allow 24/7 tracking throughout the trip on very good 3D maps.

You can follow Jon’s posts at Mountain Expeditions, Facebook, Twitter. Mollie is posting at Mollie Hughes Blog, Facebook and Twitter. Thanks Jon and wishing you Mollie and team a positive experience this year.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything