The rope team reached K2’s summit opening the door for the first team summit from Madison Mountaineering to top out supported by Mashabrum Expeditions for logistics. Over 100 others are in various high camps for their respective summit bids as of 4:00 am on Friday, July 22, 2022. Sadly there is a report of a death near C3 on K2.

Big Picture – The Summit Push and A Death – Update

It looks like the winds picked back up across the four 8000ers over the last 24 hours, but teams remained focused and summited GII, and K2. It will be a big next 24 to 48 hours across the 8000ers as the weather is predicted to ease. Look for multiple summits from many teams. We will see a record on K2, to be sure.

UPDATE: Afghanistan climber Ali Akber Sakhim, 34, died from altitude sickness near C3 on K2 on July 20, 2022, as Samiya Mirza tells me, adding, “Our team tried to save his life brought him down but suddenly he collapsed and passed away.” He was attempting to be the first Afghani man to summit K2.

K2 – Expect Scores of Summits

First off, kudos to the rope team from Madison Mountaineering and 8k Expeditions. Garrett Madison sent me this update on the rope team summit:

Update July 21st 10:40 PM Pakistan time: Our rope fixing team of Sherpas (Siddhi, Dorjee, Rinji) along with 2 Sherpas from the 8k team (Pasdawa & Chhring) have reached the summit of K2. We are very proud of their hard work in setting the route and leading the way. Our climbers in camp 4 have just begun their climb, hopefully reaching the top in about 8 hours, just after sunrise on the 22nd of July.

The following teams are on their push:

• 8K Expeditions (Nepal)
• Elite Expeditions (Nepal)
• Furtenbach Adventures (Austria)
• Madison Mountaineering (US)
• Mingma G’s Imagine Nepal (Nepal)
• Pioneer Adventure (Nepal)
• Seven Summits Treks (Nepal)
• Karakorum Expeditions (Pakistan)

With these teams either waiting or not providing updates as to their current position or plans:

• Adventure Pakistan (Pakistan)
• Adventure Tours Pakistan (Pakistan)
• Alpine Adventure Guide (Pakistan)
• Lela Peak Expedition (Pakistan)
• Summit Karakoram (Pakistan)

Gasherbrum II – Difficult Summits – Update

Adrian Ballinger told me his small team of four summited GII. UPDATE:  “, Esteban “Topo” Mena, Matt Greving, Dorji Sherpa, and Ngima Tenzing Sherpa” They added:

The team made their first summit attempt yesterday morning, but decided to turn around at 7,200m because of deep snow and challenging conditions – opting to get some more rest at high camp and make a second summit bid. They knew it would be a hard fight to reach the summit, but they were determined to give it another go.

Beginning at 10:30 pm, they worked through a long and cold night of breaking trail. These moments of resilience and courage are what we come away with when the expedition is all said and done – failing, adjusting, and pushing through adversity to reach success. We’ve found the mountains to be the best teachers, and Gasherbrum II has certainly taught our team a thing or two about trusting the process.

The team has made it down to Camp 1 safely and will wake up bright and early tomorrow for their descent to Base Camp.

Also, Pioneer Adventure‘s Sanu Sherpa led client Naoko Watanabe to the summit making his 28th summit for the 14 8000ers. While it’s not clear if he’s made the true summits (I guess we have to add this comment every time someone claims multiple 8000ers, now,) if so, he has become the first person to summit each 8000ers twice.

Blue Sky Treks & Tours said they had a client with two Sherpas summit GII:  Romanian Adrian Laza with Sherpas Sherpas Tenjing and Chhangba. Seven Summits Treks said they had one client with two Sherpas summit GI but listed no names.

But it looks like big winds slowed down Jagged Globe:

The team climbed from Camp 2 (6550m) to Camp 3 (6985m) this morning (21 July). Strong winds prevented the planned 0300hrs start and they eventually left at 0500hrs. Conditions were excellent and they arrived at 0800hrs. Despite the windy conditions a few strong climbers made the first G2 summit of the season today. Several groups will join forces tomorrow and more than 30 climbers will be aiming for the summit. The weather forecast looks good, although last night’s winds were not predicted to be as strong as the climbers experienced. Everyone is hoping for low winds and favourable conditions tonight.

Climb On!
Alan
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