K2 2023 Coverage: And the Summits Keep Going on BP, GI and GII

Record summits are happening all over Pakistan this summer, including Broad Peak, GII and even GI. Pakistan has joined Nepal in monetizing their 8000ers with record permits issued this season.

Climbing Permits Explode

Pakistan reportedly issued a record number of climbing permits this year, even after a record 1,937 visitors to the Northern Territories last year as Sajid Hussain, the deputy director of the GB tourism department, told Dawn. This growth is despite raising the permit for their flagship peak, K2, from $5000 to 12,000 for a seven-member group.

Yet while there are more people, there are few reports of long queues or bottlenecks on the four currently most active: Nanga Parbat, GI/II and Broad Peak. We’ll see how K2 turns out, given there are supposedly 250 poised to go for the summit on the next window. The issue there is the lack of spaces for tents at C1, 2 and 3. Also, traditional hot spots like House Chimney, the Bottleneck, and the Traverse are ripe for tragedy if scores of people line up waiting for the ropes to be set or their inexperience comes to light.

Last year there were reports of Pakistan limiting the size of teams, but it seems the rules had so many loopholes that it had no significant impact. Pakistan has the ability to manage its natural resources (mountains) well, as shown by Argentina on Aconcagua, Denali in Alaska and some in the Alps, but it all depends on the willingness of authorities to balance safety with permit income.

Finally, I’m noting many summits of a foreigner with only one Pakistani High-Altitude-Climber (note: they used to be called High Altitude Porters aka HAPs, but many are much more than a load carrying porter today). The lack of Pakistani support is behind the non-Pakistani guides bringing Sherpas in from Nepal to support their clients. I hope Pakistan invests in training more support so they can become more independent one day.

Gasherbrum I – 33+ Summits

Chris Warner climbing with 8K Expeditions’ Tersing Sherpa and Pemba Sherpa, got his third 8000er in Pakistan this month alone. In under twenty-five hours, a young Nepali climber, Nima Rinji Sherpa, 17, summited both GI and II with Pasang Nurbu Sherpa. Nima got Manaslu last year and will go for K2 and BP this season in his quest to get all fourteen of the 8000ers. Seven Summits Treks also reported another client/Sherpa pair summited, taking the total for GI well over 33 this season. Perhaps a record for a peak rarely climbed?

Broad Peak – 13+ summits

There are no updates from Furtenbach Adventures, who was last reported at C2 four days ago.

Gasherbrum II – 34+ summits

8K Expeditions put one client and two Sherpas, Pasdawa and Nawang Sherpa, on top. Polish climber/skier Andrzej Bargiel summited and skied down from the summit. Karakorum Expeditions noted one client and Pakistani High Altitude Guide, Ashad Karim summited GII. Seven Summits Treks also reported another client/Sherpa pair summited,

Jagged Globe has remained at C2, now for several days. It’s unclear why they are not moving when many other teams have summited. Alpenglow is reportedly on their push, but there are no updates.

K2 – Rotations

Most K2 teams are winding down their rotations and are now waiting for a good weather window. It appears the Sherpas will fix the safety line from C3 to the summit with a huge number of members and Sherpas in tow. Let’s hope the snow has settled and bonded also the avalanche danger is minimized.

Nanga Parbat – Over

The season appears to be over with sixty summits.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

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