The 2024 autumn climbing season reveals just how routine making the summit of an 8000-meter peak has become in the 2020s. Manaslu has seen over 100 summits, while other peaks are nearing their time. A few individuals added to their trophy box by completing all fourteen 8000-meter peaks with Shishpangma today.
Shisha Pangma and Wrapping up all 14 of the 8000ers
One mystery is how some of these climbers summited without supplemental oxygen, as China now has a new rule that everyone must use supplemental oxygen above 7000 meters. This applies to Everest, Cho Oyu and Shishpangma. It appears that Mingma G, Nirmal Purja and Sirbaz Khan did not use Os. It’s unclear if China made an exception for them.
Despite meters of fresh snow that was similar to 2023’s disastrous year when four people died in avalanches, many teams ignored basic safety rules and summited today. Fourteen people were targeting Shish as their last 8000er, and today saw at least three grab it:
- Mingma G (first Nepali)
- Nirmal Purja
- Tracee Metcalfe (first American female)
- Sirbaz Khan (first Pakistani)
Also, summiting Shis were
- Japanese Naoki Ishikawa
- Dawa Gyalje Sherpa
- Sashko Kedev
- Kili Pemba Sherpa
- Phur Galjen Sherpa
- Ngima Nuru Sherpa
Others trying to finish their checklist of climbing all fourteen 8000ers include:
- Nima Rinji Sherpa
- British climber Adriana Brownlee
- Russian Alina Pekova
- Italian Mario Vielmo (wants to go no Os, but China forbids it now)
Manaslu – 136++ Summits
As of September 29, 2024, the Nepal Ministry of Tourism has issued 308 permits to foreigners, so adding a support ratio of 1.5 for each foreigner puts around 770 people at the peak. However, reports say the mountain doesn’t feel crowded. Last year, in 2023, the Nepal government issued 301 permits to foreigners and 394 in 2022. Multiple teams have summited Manaslu, including:
- 8K Expeditions: 35 summits–14 members with 21 Sherpas in support
- Adventure Peaks: ?
- Climbing the Seven Summits: 6 summits– 3 members with 3 Sherpas in support
- Imagine Nepal: ?
- International Mountain Guides: 7 summits–7 members with 4 Sherpas in support
- Kaitu Expedition: ? summits
- Jagged Globe: 9? summits–1 guide, 4 members with 4 Sherpas in support
- Maddison Mountaineering: 7 summits–1 guide, 3 members with 3 Sherpas in support
- Makalu Extreme: 4? summits–2 members with 2 Sherpas in support
- Pioneer Adventures: 21 summits–10 members with 11 Sherpas in support
- Seven Summits Treks (Arnold Coster): 8 summits – 4 members with 4 Sherpas in support
- Seven Summits Treks: 31 members with 32 Sherpas
- Seven Summits Treks: 6 Sherpas on rope fixing team
- Wild Yak: 2 summits–1 member with 1 Sherpa in support
Cho Oyu – Ropes to the Summit
Seven Sherpas from several teams summited Cho from Tibet while fixing the route.
From Tibet
Adventure Consultants with four members, one guide and an unspecified number of Sherpas is staged at Base Camp: “Another change for anyone climbing 8000ers in Tibet is the new rule that everyone must use supplemental oxygen above 7000 meters. This applies to Everest, Cho Oyu and Shishpangma. This will discourage many purists and those looking to climb all fourteen sans Os.” Maddison Mountaineering is also ready for their push as are a few other teams.
From Nepal– No Updates
Dhaulagiri – No Updates
A five-person Russian team was targeting September 29 for their summit of Dhaulagiri, but there are no current updates. Bad weather had stalled their progress at a few points.
Makalu – No Updates
The Himalayan Times reports that Two Ukrainian climbers are on Makalu attempting a new route, but there are no current updates.
Everest Ski Expedition – No Updates
A $1 million expedition to ski the Hornbein Couloir on Everest’s Tibet side, sponsored by The North Face and National Geographic, has returned in 2024 after being canceled last year. The Chinese had issued them a climbing permit but not one for skiing. Upon initial arrival at the border, Jimmy Chin and Conrad Anker were denied entry into Tibet.
This year, The Himalayan Times noted that Americans Jimmy Chin, Jim Morrison, Mark Fisher, Tibetans, Nepali Sherpas, and Mingma David Sherpa would make the attempt. The expedition honors Hilaree Nelson, who died while skiing from the summit of Mt Manaslu in 2022. The other members continued to base camp and established C2, but the weather moved in, and the expedition was called off with still no skiing permit.
Safe climbing to all.
Climb On!
Alan
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