Climber · Coach · Writer · Advocate
Summiting Everest in 2011, and K2 in 2014 at age 58 — becoming the oldest American at the time — Alan Arnette has spent two decades as both a high-altitude climber and the most trusted independent voice in mountaineering journalism.
This site is a record of that journey: 37 major expeditions on six continents, thousands of pages of trip reports, gear guides, expedition dispatches, and the real stories behind every Himalayan season.
Climbing the world to end Alzheimer’s.
Full biography →Authoritative Everest coverage since 2004 — 23 consecutive seasons of updates, analysis, and no-hype dispatches trusted by a million+ readers annually.
Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Denali, Aconcagua and 30+ more. Every expedition documented with photos, essays, and honest accounts.
Independent Summit Coach for climbers at every level — from first 14ers to Everest and K2. No guide service agenda. Your success is the only goal.
Captivating talks on peak performance, Alzheimer’s awareness, and the leadership lessons of extreme mountaineering for corporate and academic audiences.
With the ropes to Everest and, now, Lhotse in place, there were multiple summits, including records on Sunday morning, May 17, 2026. With the weather improving, the route in, team after team…
We had more summits overnight, and the no Os climbers and runners are on their way. American trail…
A long-standing tradition is to connect with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, on an expedition. I caught…
With the ropes to Everest and, now, Lhotse in place, there were multiple summits, including records on Sunday morning, May 17, 2026. With the weather improving, the route in, team after team has left base…
We had more summits overnight, and the no Os climbers and runners are on their way. American trail runner Tyler…
A long-standing tradition is to connect with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, on an expedition. I caught up with…
274 summits on the Nepal side in a single day — a new record. Plus: Alan’s narrative of his own summit night on May 21, 2011, and the announcement of his K2 memoir.
As an independent coach, Alan doesn’t work for any guide service. The goal is simple: help you choose the right objective, the right team, and the right plan — for your goals, your experience, and your life.
Matching your experience and ambitions to the right peak — honestly, not optimistically.
Independent evaluation of operators, costs, safety records, and team fit.
A personalized plan covering physical, technical, mental, and emotional readiness.
When I came to Alan, I had absolutely no climbing experience, and I only dreamed of climbing Mount Everest as a teenager. Despite my initial inexperience, Alan provided me with all of the insights and training I would need to summit Mount Everest at 19. He guided me every single step of the way, all the way to the top.
Alan has extensive knowledge and experience in mountaineering, and provided valuable advice based on my individual profile. He helped me choose the right guiding company and gave me key insights on technical, physical and mental preparation. The knowledge and help from Alan played a key role in the success of my Everest climb.
In-depth conversations on mountaineering, high-altitude climbing, Alzheimer’s advocacy, and the stories behind the expeditions. Available on all major platforms.
After 37 major expeditions, Alan brings authentic stories and hard-won insight to corporate audiences, nonprofits, and universities. His talks connect the demands of extreme mountaineering to real-world leadership, resilience, and purpose.
His casual yet powerful style brings audiences into the high-altitude world with stunning photography, video, and personal storytelling — leaving them entertained, educated, and motivated.
Alan’s climbing career has been driven by a deeply personal commitment to Alzheimer’s research and awareness. This cause is at the center of everything he does on and off the mountain.
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“Your narrative of the summit night gave me chills. I felt like I was right there on the ridge with you.”
“Best Everest coverage on the internet. No hype, just what matters. Can’t wait for the memoir.”
“I’ve followed you since your Everest climb. The way you tell these stories is unmatched.”