Training, Gear & Communication:

Q: How did you train for this climb?
A: I did a lot of running for aerobic conditioning and climbed Mont Blanc multiple times prior to leaving. I wished I had been in better aerobic condition in hindsight since it was tough above 8000m for me.

Q: Was altitude a problem on this climb?
A: Yes, it is always a challenge on 8,000m climbs. We used supplemental oxygen for the summit push. Altitude can be a problem for anyone above 8,000', much less when you are going above 22,000'. To acclimatize en route, the travel to base camp takes about a week along including a few side climbs. We climbed to 16,000' one day just to acclimatize in Nyalam. As usual when you climb big mountains, you follow the climb high, sleep low routine. On my Cho Oyu climb we had one climber who became sick at base camp, 15,500', and never really recovered. Sadly another climber died at C2 after summiting. We buried him in a crevasse and never really knew why he died.

Q: Can you prepare for the altitude?
A: Not really. The common approach is to move slowly up the mountain (1000' a day maximum) spending your days at a higher altitude than where you sleep up until your summit bid. The human body simply does not function well at high altitudes and especially above 8000m (26,300'). As you go higher, the barometric pressure decreases, although the air still contains 21% oxygen, every breath contains less molecules of oxygen.

Everest legend Tom Hornbein explained it to the American Lung Association this way:

The lower oxygen stimulates chemoreceptors that initiate an increase in breathing, resulting in a lowering of the partial pressure of CO2 and hence more alkaline blood pH. The kidneys begin to unload bicarbonate to compensate. Though this adaptation can take many days, up to 80% occurs just in the first 48 to 72 hours. There are many other physiologic changes going on, among them the stimulus of low oxygen to release the hormone, erythropoietin to stimulate more red blood cell production, a physiological and still acceptable form of blood doping that enhances endurance performance at low altitudes. Adaptive changes are not always good for one’s health. Some South American high altitude residents can have what’s called chronic mountain sickness, resulting from too many red blood cells; their blood can be up to 84-85% red blood cells. The increased blood viscosity and sometimes associated pulmonary hypertension can result in right heart failure.

You cannot do much to acclimatize while at a low altitude but there are companies that claim to help the acclimatization process through specially designed tents that simulate the reduced oxygen levels at higher elevations. I have no personal experience with these systems but you can find more details at the Hypoxico website. They cost about $7,000 or can be rented for about $170 a week. Outside Magazine posted an article in 2013 questioning their effectiveness.

Q: What kind of equipment did you use?
A: Mostly I use the same gear I used on Everest. I use a 3 layer system: base, warmth and wind/cold. My personal technical equipment included a long handle ice axe, harness, carabineers and crampons. It is always critical to protect my toes, fingers and face since these were most susceptible to frost bite. See my gear page for a complete discussion and my gear list updated for 2013. I am very pleased with all my gear but had a few standouts that I note on my gear page.

Q: Anything special in your gear for Cho Oyu?
A: I used everything on my gear page under Cho Oyu including the full down suit. It can be extremely cold and windy so multiple down layers are required. My boots were the Everest One Sports.

Q: Did you use Sat Phones?
A: I climbed it in 1997 so Thuraya was not available which is what I (and other Cho Oyu teams) use today. For details on my expedition communications, please see this tutorial.

Expedition Basics

My 1998 Experience

Q: Why did you choose Adventure Consultants as a guide service in 1998?
A: I was new to high altitude climbing and knew of their reputation from "Into Thin Air". I spoke with Guy Cotter and felt good about his company at that time.

Q: How did they perform?
A: They didn't! With a week to go Guy called and cancelled the climb. I ended up going with Eric Simonson's IMG. They were OK but I was disappointed with the attitude of the lead guide and some of the group equipment. Remember that this was ten years ago but I would still get current references on any guide service before committing your time and money.

Q: Which route did you take?
A: The standard Northwest ridge. We had camps at 18.5K, 20.6K, 22K, 24.5K to the summit at 26.9K. It was a blast to climb. Lot's of long snow slopes with some interesting spots such as the Ice Wall and the Yellow Band. The views were fantastic. My favorite site was Camp 1 with a view of the steep scree slope below and the high ridges above.

Q: What kind of weather conditions did you have?
A: It was cold - very cold and hot, very hot! The trek to ABC was nice but lower climbs to C1 and C2 were brutally hot. But the summit push was quite cold and windy.

Q: Do you think anything is different now in 2008?
A: Cho Oyu has become a very popular mountain and has been extremely crowded. But with the Chinese closing Everest and Cho Oyu to 2008 spring climbs everything is different The fall of 2008 saw only a few teams and less than 100 summits - compared with 300 in 2007. Time will tell how the Chinese treat Everest, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma in the future so I suggest going with proven operators with good relations with the Chinese such as IMG, Altitude Junkies or Project Himalaya.

Q: Did you use bottled oxygen?
A: Yes, we started using oxygen at 2 lpm on the summit push from Camp 3.

Q: Would you climb Cho Oyu again?
A: I would like to reach the official summit point since I reached the plateau at 8000m. But I would only go if it was with good friends and preferably on a small expedition with competent staff and support.

Bottom Line

Cho Oyu is a nice climb especially for your first 8000m mountain. But there are many complications as of 2008 with the new Chinese regulations and attitude. The actually climbing is enjoyable and satisfying. Seeing Tibet is educational and inspirational. But if the complications continue to grow, the Nepal climb of Manaslu may be the best alternative for a first 8000m climb.