I just returned from a 4 day climb of three 14ers in the Sangre de Cristo range in southern Colorado. I summited two of the three but turned back on Little Bear due to extreme veriglass on the summit gully. You can read all about it in the trip report.
Turning back from any climb – whether a 14er or Everest is a complex decision. I have done both. For me, the decision becomes a fact based decision, not an emotional one. On Everest, it was a factor of my climbing speed or declining health or weather conditions. On Little Bear it was simply the conditions.
It can be argued that any re is a function of not being prepared well enough – physical condition, mental toughness or gear. And there is some truth in that. The other side is one of risks and the potential reward.
Yes, if I had ropes, cams, crampons, ice axes and a partner with the same; I might not have turned back on Little Bear. If I had trained harder or perhaps had better mental discipline on Everest maybe I would have gone higher and even summited.
Could have, should have , would have.
For me the question comes around to why I climb. Of course I want to summit on every climb – that is the objective. And of course, I want to go home feeling I gave it my and did not give up too easy or let a partner down.
And, of course, I want to come home.
Climb On!
Alan
2 thoughts on “Turning Back From a Summit”
Well said, MCS. Climbing is often about accepting what you have not what you want. That was my situation on Everest and other climbs where I have turned back. No regrets – it was just the way it was at that time. I also reflect on what I learned not if I summited or not and then look at if I still want to go back to that mountain.
To raise $1M for Alzheimer’s, the answer is yes for Everest … plus I have learned a lot 🙂
Yes, I agree with you, Alan. Turning back is a decision based on inner call & the acceptance that the mountain is always there & there is always the next time. I appreciate Ed Viesturs climbing principle that Getting to the Top is optional but coming back alive is mandatory– makes good climbing sense– since your loved ones are waiting for you at home.
Many a climber has been lost coz of Summit Fever & non adherence to pre-determined turning back time– the 1996 tragedy is one such example where even expert high altitude guides made such basic mistakes.
Do you still want to climb Everest after turning back 3 times?
MCS
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