When people think of climbing in the Himalaya, almost everyone thinks of Mt. Everest. But the post-monsoon period of Fall is difficult on Everest with higher winds, more snow plus ever-shorter and colder days so many commercial companies turn to the lower and slightly logistically easier Cho Oyu, Manaslu and Shishapangma as their primary Fall 8000m expeditions.
However, two other peaks, not in the 8000m club, come into focus: Ama Dablam and Pumori. With easy access completely contained within Nepal, these climbs offer something for everyone, including extreme danger.
Ama Dablam, 22467 ft / 6848 m
The “Jewel of the Khumbu” is located just 9 miles south of Everest. Anyone who has ever trekked in the Khumbu probably has many pictures of Ama Dablam. It is exactly what a mountain should look like – tall, sharp and pointy. Plus it has one major feature that captures everyone’s attention and sometime their lives – the Dablam. A mushroom shaped snow and ice serac dominantly hanging on the southwest ridge.
In mid November 2006, a section of the Dablam collapsed taking away camp 3 and killing 6 climbers in the process. Their bodies were never recovered. This event shook climbers to their core since camp 3 had been placed in the same spot for years without incident. Again in 2008, it collapsed but this time the camp had been moved to a slightly different place. However a slightly new route was required to minimize the danger.
In terms of climbing, Ama Dablam’s southwest ridge is technical. This means ropes, ice axe, crampons, ice screws, cams and jumars. The rock climbing can be 5.7 and the ice, WF4. Ice and rock climbing plus some high altitude experience is almost mandatory for a safe and pleasant experience.
Ama Dablam was my first Himalaya summit in 2000 and is still my favorite.
Pumori, 23494 ft / 7161 m
Translated as “Unmarried Daughter”, Pumori is located just 6 miles west of Everest. The original Everest South Col summit route taken by Tenzing and Hillary was scouted by Eric Shipton from Pumori’s slopes.
Visitors to Everest base camp see Pumori everyday since it dominates the western horizon. I remember watching multiple avalanches from Pumori during my three Everest climbs.
This snow coned shaped mountain presents similar challenges as Ama Dablam but is mostly a snow climb with a few rock sections thrown in. The South ridge is the normal route today and is much safer than the avalanche prone East Ridge that has taken many lives.
Summits are actually a gift on Pumori due to the changing Fall weather and unpredictable snow conditions –even on the safer south ridge. But the chance to climb a 7000m mountain with the of Everest’s South Col route is a draw to many.
Fall 2009
So while both Ama Dablam and Pumori are sometimes advertised as training climbs for Everest, they are world-class climbs in their own right and require top fitness, skills and experience.
Pumori tends to be less crowded with only a few teams attempting it due to the dangerous reputation. However, Ama Dablam, which has recently claimed more lives and presents more objective danger is regularly crowded with many large commercial and small private teams. This Fall teams include Peak Freaks and Haines on Pumori and IMG, Adventure Consultants over on Ama Dablam.
Safe climbing to all.
