No Fall 2009 Everest Summits

Fall is a difficult time to climb Everest. This year there were only two teams – one on each side. Both gave it their all and both have now left the mountain without a summit attempt. Heavy snowfall and high winds were the primary issues.

The 28 member Indo-Tibetan Border Police team climbed from Nepal and wanted to ski from the summit. Reuters of India, reported that 15 climbers reached 7, 406 meters via the South Col route but heavy snow prevented them from fixing ropes higher.

The Basque team climbed from Tibet via the Hornbein Couloir and reached the same conclusion plus wind chills were -50 from the extremely high jet stream winds. They had reached 7200 meters.

The high winds, heavy snow and falling temps also hit teams on Cho Oyu with Adventure Consultants abandoning their expedition after reaching a Camp 1.5. Two efforts to climb new routes on Cho Oyu were also thwarted. Thus far this year, only the early teams on Cho have summited.

It looks like Andrew Lock just made the window with his impressive true summit of Shishapangma with partner Neil Ward. I believe they were the only team to achieve Shisha’s true summit this season.

But teams now attempting Ama Dablam, Pumori, Island and Buruntse Peaks are all reporting more normal Fall weather albeit with shorter days and colder temps so it looks like the post-monsoon pattern has finally set in – good news for these teams.

Once these climbs are complete, winter settles into the Himalaya and climbers work on their spring plans including another season on Everest.

By the way, the Discovery Channel’s Everest – Beyond the Limit: Season 3 will air in December. You may remember they filmed Russel’s Brice’s Himex and Eric Simonson’s IMG teams this past spring during their south side expeditions. As they say, check your local listings.

Climb On!

Alan