Everest is a mountain of lifelong dreams and huge ambitions. Most climbers are happy to just try to reach the top of the world. A few dream to climb up one side and down the other – a traverse. Then there are those that want a return trip aka the double traverse. By the way, it has never been done.
A single traverse is incredibly difficult – physically mentally and logistically. A double amplifies the challenge. It has been tried a few times, medical most recently with a world-class effort by David Tait with one of the Sherpas in the world, Phurba Tashi and the services of Himex and Adventure Consultants. David and Purba made the traverse from the north to south but then David called a halt to the return. He told the world:
However, during the later part of the endless painful descent I realized two things. Firstly, I was not going to be able, in all seriousness to motivate both mind and body to turn around and do it all again, at least not in the time-scale allowed. There might be some supermen in this world, but I discovered that I am frankly not one of them. The men who are however, are people like Phurba Tashi, and his band of awesome cohorts, who day-in day-out climb, stock, rope and carry loads up and down Everest without the slightest hint of complaint – in fact they appear to accept it as a priviledge. The have an almost alien mindset, and a work-ethic, no-one in Britain can even imagine.
To be clear what a double traverse entails, the climber starts from the north side, for example, climbs to the summit then, instead of returning to north base camp, continues to the south base camp. There they replenish their energy through excellent rest and food before the next phase in short order. They climb again, almost as a new expedition altogether, to the summit and continue to the original base camp. There is a reason it is rarely attempted and has never been done
Undeterred by David’s experience, Australian climber Gavin Turner, is now planning the double. Gavin took some time from training on his nearby Mt. Rainer to speak with me.
Q: You live in the Pacific Northwest and Rainier is in your backyard. How often do you get to climb it?
I recently moved to Seattle after about 10 years living in Nepal and India. I first climbed Rainier in June 2007, but this has been my first full year living in Seattle and I’ve tried to take advantage of it! I’ve climbed Rainier 9 times this year, 7 times to the summit, including 4 solo ascents. All up I’ve got 9 summits, via 6 different routes. It’s an incredible mountain and I feel a deep connection with it. It’s not just about going to the summit, although that’s always nice. It’s about the experience of being there, what the mountain teaches me each time I return.
The solo climbs on Rainier have been some of the most enjoyable mountain experiences of my life. In August, I started one solo climb from the carpark at Paradise (5400feet) at 9.30pm. There were a few tourists walking around the carpark, enjoying the long summer days, and a few of them approached me as I geared up. I got a few strange looks and comments. When I explained to someone what I was doing, he asked me if I was a crazy physics professor! It doesn’t seem crazy to me. A night on Rainier, just me and the mountain, the energy, the stars, the snow and ice, it was wonderful. I climbed right through the night to the summit and returned back to the carpack, with only a short break here and there. The whole thing took about 12 hours.
Q: When did Everest come into your plans?
I first trekked in the Everest region in spring 1999. I hiked in from Jiri and did the full-circuit, about 30 days and crossed the high passes and visited base camp. It was incredible. I hiked right to the end of the Gokyo valley and scrambled up an 18,000feet peak known as Ngozumpa Tse. It was an extraordinary 360degree view from the summit. Further north than Gokyo Ri and to the west of Kala Patar, the view of Everest from the summit of Ngozumpa is astonishing – you see most of the North Face, the steps on the NE Ridge, the West Ridge, much of the South West face, some of the Lhotse face and the South Col. Dreams are born in such places.
Q: In 2010 you will be attempting the never before accomplished double traverse. What is your motivation for this?
I’ve always appreciated a good challenge and this seems like one! Actually, for many years I didn’t think I would climb Everest. The crowds on summit day, the complicated politics of the region and all the other shenanigans that takes place there these days…it’s a crazy place, in some respects. But it’s not the 1970’s anymore and I know I will not get the mountain to myself. It’s Everest and I am drawn to it, almost inexplicably, like many others are. It’s a connection you feel to the mountain, to the whole region, the Khumbu. And then there is wanting to experience the final climb up the summit ridge, ice axe in hand, to the summit.
The Double Traverse is appealing to me because it has never been done before and it represents pushing the boundary of human endurance. I am fascinated by the psychological aspect of high altitude mountaineering, the mental endurance and conditioning necessary for these big climbs. That’s not to say physical fitness is unimportant – I’ve been training very hard for this climb. But you look at all of the great endurance athletes of our time and it’s their mental strength that sets them apart from the pack. Aside from that, I’ve always believed in following my dreams and this climb is essentially about just that.
Q: Who will you be climbing with and from which side will you launch your traverse?
I am still evaluating potential partners but want to make sure they have experience on both sides. It is critical that my partner has Sherpas who have climbed from both sides and logistics on both sides.
I am still uncertain about which side to begin from. I like the idea of living at Nepal Base Camp for most of the expedition…there’s a decent bakery there now and the fries at Gorak Shep are pretty good too. It’s lower elevation than ABC on the Tibetan side is very appealing to me. The down side of starting in Nepal is all the trips through the Khumbu icefall, and the fact that after traversing into Tibet, I would only be descending as far as ABC, which is still well above 20,000feet. Not exactly a comfortable resting altitude.
Q: What are your thoughts on David Tait’s 2007 double attempt where he stopped after completing the north-south leg? Have you spoken with him?
I followed David’s climb on Discovery and was impressed with his achievement. It’s obviously a tough push to go back up and over. When the mind says it’s over, it’s over. We haven’t spoken yet, but I wrote to him recently and am looking forward to hearing from him.
Q: Any other thoughts for us followers this year?
When I think about what potentially awaits me, I am reminded that climbing Everest is a dream I have held for many years now. Years in the making and then all the effort throughout the expedition, to hopefully make it to the summit. Hopefully twice, in my case. But I will spend no more than an hour on the summit and yet this dream has been alive now for over 10 years! That fact reminds me that climbing is about the process, the experience of being deep in the mountains, and not just about the summit. So I will sit back and enjoy the ride, give it everything I have, and yet always remember that getting back home is my number one priority.
The last thing I would say is thank you to everyone that follows these climbs and I look forward to your support over the coming six months!
Follow your dreams!
Gavin may not be alone. Bill Burke, the oldest American to summit Everest said after his record last year that he will return:
My friend, David Liano from Mexico, who has summited Mt. Everest twice, is planning to do a double traverse in 2010, and I would like to join him.
Both climbers had their traverse plans thwarted last year with the complications on the Chinese side.
Every year, climbers dream and make plans. While most of us are focused on the holidays right now, these climbers are getting up for a early morning run or a late night in the gym. This is what dreams are made of.
You can read more about Gavin’s efforts on his blog. We wish you the Gavin and will be following you this year.
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