Climbers Reflect and the Icefall is in Early

This week, the majority of the 2010 expeditions are working their way up the Khumbu towards Everest Base Camp on the south side. Permits and visas have now been issued for north teams and they have left Kathmandu, crossed the boarder and are already in Tingri and other Tibetan villages.

We can expect to see climbers arrive in the base camps later this week. The Altitude Junkies team is looking at Friday, April 9th for the south BC and SummitClimb, the 8th over on the north.

As the south teams make their way north, they experience the second of three Pujas for some teams. The first is usually in Kathmandu, then one along the trek and finally the most important one at Everest Base Camp. A Puja is when a Lama performs a ceremony where he asks the mountain Gods for permission to climb and for the safety of the climbers. He also asks for forgiveness for the damage caused to the mountain by the climbers.

The one along the trek is with the honored Lama Geshi. He is one of the most important Lamas in all Buddhism. Climbers visit his personal home in Pangboche where they are served tea and snacks by his wife and daughter. Everyone feels a bit different during these ceremonies. Here are two takes. First from Dave Hahn with RMI

It was our second night in Deboche, and the group is doing really well. After breakfast we started hiking along the Imja River, following its banks until the valley walls narrowed and we began the climb up to Pangboche. Pangboche is a small village, but a very important stop on our trek to Basecamp. It is here that the Lama Geshe gives his blessing for a safe expedition. Each climber receives a “kata” and blessing card and this is followed by his blessing. The tradition is for the climbers to take a picture holding the blessing card while on top of Everest and then mail it back to him. One whole wall is covered with pictures of climbers, spanning many years. To take part in this ceremony is an honor and gives valuable insight into the Sherpa culture.

Tim Rippel of Peak Freaks describes the impact on his team

Our Puja today had a very special affect on everyone. The emotion among the group was heavy. This is a time where for some, they realize they made need a little help in a spiritual sense and confront that fact head on. They acknowledge they are about to engage in something that may throw obstacles at them that will be out of their control. Lama Geshi’s blessing helps give them the tools to deal with this and offers prayers for safe passage.

One of the most interesting moments with Lama Geshi is after he places the white scarf or kata and the sungdi,which is a red string around your neck, he will do a small head-butt with you more or less sealing the deal. A special moment to be sure.

In Icefall news, it is in!! This is incredibly early and it appears the route is much safer this year according to this dispatch from EverestEr. Last year it was April 14th when the route was finalized.

Back to the icefall doctors – these 6 rugged guys traverse the icefall, toting ladders and rope and other equipment to set the route up to camp 1.  They are way ahead of schedule this year, and have reached the top of the icefall with only a few hundred yards left to fix to camp 1.  Ang Gyaltzen tells me there are no segments longer than 2 ladders (excellent news for climbers wary of those legendary 9-ladder-long spans across yawning crevasses) and they have used ~ 30 some ladders so far (last year I recall 40-some.)

Great news for the early teams because they can start their rotations to the higher camps almost immediately. Perhaps this will reduce the crowding when the summit window appears in mid May.

Climb On!

Alan

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