Everest 2013: The Kathmandu Shuffle

The activity is really picking up in Kathmandu. The flight from Bangkok, ed Thai Airways TG319, doctor lands around 12:30 bringing a plane full of aspiring climbers and trekkers each day. Others arrive from Hong Kong, Delhi, Karachi or Bahrain.

Regardless of the route, the arrival experience is the same. You go down the stairs, no jet ways at the Tribhuvan International Airport, stepping onto the tarmac. The temperature is around 80F/27C but it can feel a bit cool, even refreshing in late March.

I have never understood this, but everyone rushes towards the customs room. In a week, everyone will be walking slowly, taking everything in but old habits die hard so the stampede to get your entry visa begins. 

If this is your first time to Kathmandu, you may think you have gone back in time by say, 50 years, maybe more. You need to have your visa form completed, some download it from home or get it on the airline thus come prepared and save a few minutes. You need your passport photos and payment in cash only. Most climbers get the 90 day visa for USD$100.

You hand your paperwork to the first man sitting behind a wooden desk, who looks at it, then passes it to the next guy who stamps it, who then hands it to the next one who looks at it and then looks at you which is your prompt to hand him your money. There may be another step in the process, but it all goes smoothly and before you know it you are in Nepal!

Collecting your bags is a live demonstration of chaos theory combined with meaningful prayer but, again, it all works out and you heave your duffel onto a rickety cart and head for the exit. Hey, not so fast! You need to have you bags x-rayed but if there is a long line, some people slink by unnoticed, not advised but frequently done.

By this time, you feel like a pro and you push your cart towards the light of the day and the crowds outside the airport. Scanning for your name on a small poster, you feel instant relief that your ride is there. Maybe you are not a pro quite yet.

Most likely you now meet some of your teammates who you had noticed on the flights by their backpacks, military style haircuts, pony tails and trekking shoes.

Somehow the fresh air has been replaced by a closed in feeling of humidity perhaps a physical reaction to what you are about to start. But you squeeze into a small van, or tiny cab for the ride to your hotel.

The drive is total culture shock. Instantly you know why they say the national bird of Nepal is the car horn. Weaving in and out of traffic, your driver is skillful and oblivious to the other cars, the one traffic light in all of Nepal, the pedestrians and, of course, the cows sleeping quietly in the middle of the road.

Feeling like you are on a tour of the back alleys of Kathmandu, the driver eventually pulls into a peaceful courtyard where a small man in a uniform greets you with a huge smile.

You have arrived!

The teams are going through the next steps to climb Mt. Everest. The leaders meet with the Ministry of Tourism for the required briefing. More of a formality, it is  part of the process to receive your climbing permit and to be assigned a liaison officer.

The liaison officer is supposed to stay with the team throughout their entire climb but in reality make a brief appearance at base camp, and return home for a paid vacation.

This can be a problem if a death occurs or helicopters are needed for a rescue since that is one of the responsibility of the officer to facilitate such events.

But like everything in Nepal, somehow it gets done, officially or unofficially.

One of the first order of business for many climbers, and trekkers, is to get a sim card for their cell phone. Ncell is the preferred carrier because they charge 1.99 Nepalese Rupee (USD $0.02) per minute for a call to the US. There is coverage throughout Nepal and up to Everest Base Camp. In 2011, I was able to get a weak signal all the way to Camp 2 and some report a connection from the summit itself!

Back at the hotel, another meeting takes place. The renowned Elizabeth Hawley meets with the expedition leaders to collect names, itineraries, routes and anything else she needs to confirm your summit after the climb. At 90 years-old, she is a marvel of energy and organization.

I interviewed her partner, Richard Sailsbury in the Himalayan Database in February. If your name is not in the database, you did not summit.

So, climbers, trekkers, organizers, Sherpas – everyone is enjoying their time in Kathmandu. Eating at favorite restaurants, ing last minute gear or just playing tourist.

Even the world class climbers are getting into the action. I love the blog post for Denis Urubko, who along with Alexey Bolotov will be attempting a new route on the Southwest face.

The flights to the “world’s most dangerous” airport in Lukla are running at a frenzied pace, but that is another story.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

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