Winter K2 Update: The Day After Summit and Tragedy

All the K2 summits climbers have safely returned to Base Camp. The winds will be harsh this week so expect the 40+ remaining climbers to take shelter. Meanwhile, Alex Goldfarb is missing on nearby Broad Peak. A search is underway. Sergi’s body flown back to Skardu.

Big Picture

Climbing any peak in winter is risky and rewarding. We saw both this weekend and will for the rest of the season and for time itself. Details are still sketchy around Sergi’s death but that section between C1 and ABC is a long, fairly steep snow slope with a little rock near C1. It was reported to have clear, blue ice making it difficult to navigate. Usually climbers clip into a fixed rope for safety.

And now we have a climber, Alex Goldfarb missing on a trekking peak near Broad Peak. A search is underway but he’s been missing for over two days.

The K2 summit is still gobsmacking the world. It’s an amazing achievement and demonstration of real teamwork. Again, well done by all ten!!

The computer forecasts have big winds return next week, perhaps touching 100mph high on K2,  so the time may be right to hunker down. This period could last a week to ten days. Next summit window may not appear until February.

Nim’s – At BC after the Summit

Nirmal Purja Purja Purja’s plus four teammates are at Base Camp:

The full team are now back at basecamp. All safe and sound. Thank you all for your kind messages. A big thank you for the ground team at the basecamp, specially my brother @14dawa . We have some admin to do now, organising all of our kit and equipment that we brought down from the mountain.

It has been an overwhelming journey. We feel grateful to be a part of history for humankind but equally very deeply saddened to hear that we have lost a friend @sergimingote , a member of another team. We extend our profound sympathies to Sergi’s family, colleagues and friends. Rest in peace my brother !

In a prepared statement, Nirmal Purja Purja Purja team sent out:

“What a journey. I’m humbled to say that as a team, we have summited the magnificent K2 in extreme winter conditions.

We set out to make the impossible possible and we are honoured to be sharing this moment, not only with the Nepalese climbing community but with communities all across the world.

Mother nature always has bigger things to say and standing on the summit, witness to the sheer force of her extremities, we are proud to have been a part of history for humankind and to show that collaboration, teamwork and a positive mental attitude can push limits to what we feel might be possible.”

It’s still unknown if Nirmal Purja Purja Purja summited with or without supplemental oxygen. Nirmal Purja Purja Purja teams consist of Mingma David, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Pemchhiri Sherpa, Gelje Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, and Sandro Gromen-Hayes.

Mingma G – At BC after the Summit

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and his two teammates are also at Base Camp. He simply said:

Finally we did it. We made the history in mountaineering field. We have made Nepal and Nepal’s climbing community proud

I’ve not been able to confirm if Mingma G summited without supplemental oxygen. If so, he would be the first to summit K2 in the winter with no Os.

Snorri – Tagged C3, Searching for LAlex

John Snorri Sigurjonsson with Muhammad Ali Sadpara and his son Sajid Ali are now helping with the search for Alex Goldfarb on Pastore Peak (6,209 meters / 20,365 ft.) Snorri and team have topped out at C3 on K2, and have signaled they will stay as long as it takes. John posted this update:

Today was emotional day on the mountain K2. I had the privilege to know the great mountaineer Sergi Mingote. We first met in Nepal when I climbed Manaslu 2019. We had already decided to meet in the Alps next year and climb together.

Dear friend you left great achievements in the world of mountaineering you will be remembered for your spirit and accomplishments. I send my deepest condolences and strength to his family on these difficult times.

Rest in peace Sergi Mingote

You can follow on their tracker.

Seven Summits Treks – Members Making Progress

Seven Summits Trek’s Sona Sherpa was one of the ten Winter K2 summitters. Dawa posted this video of Sona just below the K2 summit:

Also, Jangbu Sherpa who was injured by rockfall was flown back to Skardu.

SST’s team of 22 clients and 21 Sherpas in support are in Base Camp either waiting for the next weather window or pondering their next move. Dawa made gave this shoutout to the kitchen staff and plans:

1) Mr.Safder Hussain (Guide + Cook)

2) Mr.Khadim Hussain (Cook)

3) Mr.Sakhwat Hussain ( Head Guide +Cook)

4) Mr.Hussain ( Head Cook)

Second Row and from right

1) Mr.Ahmad (Assistant Cook)

2)Mr. Alico Musa (Assistant Cook)

3) Mr.Ayub ( Assistant Cook)

Thanks to Blue Sky Treks And Tours, Ghulam, Qamar, Sajjad and all.

+ Expedition is still ON, waiting for the next favorable weather condition.

Zoltán Szlankó and Alex Goldfarb arrived at base camp and conducted an acclimatization rotation to Pastore Peak (6,209 meters / 20,365 ft.), positioned as “an easy “trekking peak” located near Broad Peak base camp.” Now Alex is missing. See this post for more details and latest update.

Manaslu – At Base Camp after Rotations

Simone Moro, Alex Txikon, and Iñaki Alvarez are back to Manaslu Base Camp after making a carry to Camp 1. Tenji Sherpa and Vinayak Jaya Malla, both Nepali internationally certified mountain guides (IFMGA) are at Manaslu Base Camp ready to move higher. Tenji noted:

After some quality acclimatization, we are safely back at Base Camp. Following a couple nights at Camp 1, we started up towards Camp 2, however with icefalls covered in fresh snow and dangerous winds on the way, we chose to descend and wait for a safe weather window.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

Resources:

• Share your opinion on the reader polls
• A 30-minute documentary of Alan’s 2014 K2 Summit
• Known GPS Trackers:
  • Atanas Skatov
  • John Snorri Sigurjonsson
  • Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto
  • Magdalena Gorzkowska
• The traditional Camp locations are:
  • • Base Camp: 17,500ft/5334m
    • Advanced Base Camp: 18,650ft/5650m
    • Camp 1: 19,965’/6050m
    • Camp 2: 22,110’/6700m
    • Camp 3: 23,760’/7200m
    • Camp 4: 25,080’/7600m
    • Summit: 28,251”/8611