The Fall 2009 Himalayan season continues with teams on Cho Oyu, ambulance Manaslu, capsule Shishapangma and Everest. It is still early in most team’s acclimatization schedules. For example, prescription IMG’s Cho Oyu team has spent only one night at Camp 1 and Altitude Junkies have just reached base camp on Manaslu.
I believe there are only two teams on Everest is Fall, a Basque and an Indo Tibetan Border Police team who is attempting to ski down from the summit.
The weather has relaxed a bit with no reports of heavy snowfall or high winds – but you know what they say about weather!
Many teams have had their Pujas to ask the mountain Gods for permission and forgiveness to climb the mountain. At least the lowest high camp is established and Sherpa are hauling more tents, sometimes oxygen, food and more to the mid-level camps. We should look for summit bids in late September.
As usual, I find individuals who posts have the most introspective and revealing accounts. My good friend, Jim Davidson is on Cho Oyu with IMG and posted this recent update after his climb to Camp 1 at 21,00′:
It was tough going. I had felt sick all day. My stomach problem had cleared up, but I had picked up the cold/cough/virus going around. So I was suffering and slow. At 20,000 feet I had to take 2 breaths per step. At 20,500 feet, three breaths per step. Any faster and I went anaerobic. It was a sufferfest.
He is one of the strongest climbers I know and will do well. Climb On Jim!
Some teams and individuals with blogs to monitor include:
Cho Oyu:
Alpine Ascents
Adventure Consultants
IMG
Jagged Globe
Jim Davidson
Summit Climb
Manaslu:
Altitude Junkies
Himalayan Experience
Shishapangma:
Andrew Lock
Nick Rice
Everest spring 2009 Follow-up
Bill Burke, the oldest American to summit Everest just sent out a sad follow-up from the spring season. Again, my sincere condolences to Lhakpa Nuru friends and family. Bill’s message:
As you know from my expedition reports, the first death on Mt. Everest this season was Lhakpa Nuru, our Sherpa, who died in an avalanche in the Khumbu Icefall. Here is a message I just received from Dawa Steven, the Managing Director of Asian Trekking:
Dear Friends,
I hope this email finds you all well.
Yesterday, we received a call from the Sirdar of an Expedition on Everest who had reached base camp a few days ago. They informed us that they spotted the body of Lhakpa Nuru in the icefall. They couldnt give us any further details but said with certainty that it is Lhakpa Nuru.
Today, we sent up 4 sherpas under the leadership of Naga Dorje to retrieve the body. They will reach Base camp tomorrow morning. I am taking Lhakpa’s widow with me to Khumbu and help with the arrangements of the funeral. Unfotunately our flights were cancelled this morning due to the weather in Lukla. We hope to fly tomorrow! Though its difficult for his family to have old wounds opened again, I hope that having a proper puja and cremation will give them the needed closure and bring peace to Lhakpa’s soul.
If anyone would like to contribute to help Lhakpa’s young family, their bank details are:
Himalayan Bank, Thamel.
A/C holder: Urgen Tenzing Sherpa (The account is in his Son’s name)
A/C No. 01902302580011
SWIFT No: HIMANPKA
Please let me know if you make any contributions and I will follow it up from here. Thanks to many of you who have already contributed.
I will keep you informed you about the retrieval and the funeral.
Best Wishes,
Dawa Steven
Good luck and safe climbing to all the teams this Fall.
Climb On!
Alan
