The Children of the Khumbu

Regular readers of my expedition dispatches know that I find genuine satisfaction in interacting with the local people on a climb, especially the children. My first trek in the Solo Khumbu area of Nepal introduced me to some special people. On my second trip, order I was forever changed. By my seventh trip, it was home.

I am not sure I can put a finger on it but the Khumbu kids have a uniqueness to them unmatched in my travels. They smile easily, welcome interaction and have a laugh that makes you laugh along – years into the future.

On my first trek, when they saw a Westerner, they would run up and ask for candy, chocolate specifically, or perhaps rupees. But that has all changed, today they ask for pens, as in a writing pen. I always carry a health supply of Bic pens on each trip now.

The picture of the young lady in this post is one of my favorite all time pictures I have taken. I met her and her brothers and sisters in a small village along the Dudh Kosi river. They were watching the trekkers go by, saying hello and smiling to each person. I stopped to talk to them. I asked them their names, did they go to school, how old were they. I took their pictures and showed it to them on my camera. We all laughed and had a great time. I must have spent a hour with them.

When I took their pictures, the young ones were eager and had huge smiles. But this young girl had a look in her eye, a warmth to her smile. I asked her I could take a picture. Her brothers kept trying to horn in. Finally I focused on her bright eyes, she smiled and the moment, the memory, was captured forever.

I often wonder what she is doing today. She is probably in her 20’s and working in a teahouse. Maybe married, maybe already starting a family. Or maybe she went to school in Kathmandu and is a studying medicine. Maybe.

Thanks to the efforts of many nationalities, most of the children in the Khumbu go to school and achieve at least an 8th grade education. Their English is very good and some speak a few words of French or German as well. Without this foreign aid, the schools might never be built. This is a very partial list of countries and organizations who are doing great work in Nepal:

• Footprints (Australia)
• Himalayan Trust (Sir Edmond Hillary)
• Hillary Foundation of Canada
• Room to Read

With these efforts, most kids attend school a few hours a day but they also work at home, sometimes in tea houses cooking for trekkers or other odd jobs. But kids are kids. They play on the dirt paths with abandon. No Game Boys or television, no electricity for most. The older ones hold the young one’s hands as they go to school, playfully swatting at the yaks on the trails. For many it is the old adage of walking miles to school; uphill both ways.

As the Everest 2010 climbers and trekkers make their way through the villages, I hope they take a moment and talk to the kids. Take their picture and show it to them on the digital camera screen. They don’t want anything more than a smile back, perhaps a pen. And they would probably not turn down some candy – they are kids.

Reports are steady of teams wending around the Khumbu. Some are on side trips up the Goyko valley, which offers amazing views of Cho Oyu from the Nepal side and the famous Lakes. Others are making steady progress towards base camp. Expect the early teams to arrive in base camp in a few days.

The teams are quite large this year with IMG, Himex, RMI and Adventure Peaks all weighing in at 20 or more climbers. These four teams account for almost 100 climbers with an equal number for Sherpas. I know it is popular to criticize large teams, however they do provide the raw human power it takes to climb Everest and do more than their fair amount of “volunteer ” work for rescues and unsung duties.

But for today, it is about the kids.

Climb On!

Alan

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