Everest 2010 Weekend Update April 11

For the past 15 years, early April in the Khumbu welcomes the sound of footsteps, hospital yak bells, shop hushed conversations and dreams seeping from aspiring climbers. This past week, the dirt trails were quite busy.

Expedition after expedition made their way to Lukla then Namche and on up the Khumbu towards base camp. RMI and Peak Freaks were among the first to arrive but Phil Crampton with Altitude Junkies may have been the first westerner to live in BC. He went up with his Sherpa team to help establish BC a few weeks ago.

The north teams had the usual stop and go excitement with being told to to delay their entrance into Tibet, then they received their permits but no visa. Finally they received all the necessary paperwork to cross the boarder; and they did. Teams are driving the newly paved highway to the remote villages of Nylam and Tingri on their way to base camp. A few teams are already there but no word on the fixed ropes yet.

I estimate over 200 people now living at Everest Base Camp on the south and perhaps half that many over on the north. These camps are literally small cities with trail signs, water sources, toilets, cafes, wireless communication and more. Oh, and there are a bunch of people sneaking quick glances to their east – the Khumbu Icefall – their big next step.

With the Icefall now open and the fixed ropes and ladders set to Camp 1, teams start thinking about that next step. We often think of Everest and mountains as huge expansive places where there is plenty of room for everyone. However, on Everest, camp space comes at a premium.

Eric Simonson tells us that his Sherpa team have already reserved their spots at Camps 1 and 2 in the Western Cwm

Ang Jangbu reports from Everest Base Camp that the Icefall Doctors set the last five ladder sections today and that the route is now open. When that happens, it is like dropping the green flag at a Nascar race, with everyone putting peddle to the metal to get good camp sites! Jangbu had Mingma Tenzing and Karma Rita, two of our fastest Sherpas, lined up to lead the charge for our team up to C1 and C2, and they have now claimed our sites at those camps. The plan now is to hold the team puja on the 12th, and for a big wave of sherpas to carry up on the 13th.

Camp 1 space is actually somewhat limited by Everest’s West Shoulder to the north and the long ridge between Lhotse and Nuptse to the south. If you get too close to either, you risk avalanches or deep crevasses. Camp 2 is perched at the base of the Lhotse Face on a rocky area. Again, the space is somewhat limited to areas not in the path of potential avalanches, crevasses and unstable areas high up in the Cwm.

All this means that teams will try to reserve their favorite spot as early as possible by sending Sherpas to leave a tent or two in their spot. It is a similar story on the north with space even more limited above the North Col.

With the trek to base camp behind many climbers, certain memories have been sealed in their very essence. Once again, Leif Whittaker with the RMI teams puts it well as he and Dave Hahn looked at the memorials to fallen climbers at Dugla Pass:

I’m reminded of another thing as well. I’m reminded that climbing this mountain can kill you if you don’t respect it. I’m reminded that it has killed hundreds of climbers, many of whom were probably stronger than me. My connection to this fact feels unusually powerful, maybe because I’ve grown up hearing the names carved into these memorials. I crouch next to the timeworn letters, listen to the rumbling Dudh Kosi far below and breathe the thin alpine air, asking in my head for the blessing of the spirits of past climbers that seem so close, so intimate here. On an endeavor like this, we need all the blessings we can get.

You can follow his thoughts on the First Ascent blog. Leif is emerging as one of the most thoughtful blogger this season. The First Ascent site is again emerging as a must visit site with their clean, fast presentation; excellent writing and quality videos. Of note, they donated clothing and gear to the Icefall Doctors and EverestER staff this season – well done.

Regular followers of my coverage know I appreciate climbers who take the time to share their feelings and observations during the expedition. This takes a lot of time and focus. Another nice blog to follow is the Himex site with updates from Billi Bieling. She is a professional journalist with the team and is currently introducing all their climbers. You can see what makes these people tick. Finally, another north expedition is the small one with Bill Fischer. You can feel the excitement as he writes about what he is seeing in Kathmandu and the Khumbu as they bide their time before crossing the boarder for their north side climb.

I reported this week that Sir Edmund Hillary’s ashes were to be taken to the summit by Apa Sherpa. Well it looks like this has changed according to this message to me from Nyima Tsering Sherpa:

This is to inform that the ashes of Sir Edmund Hillary taking towards Everest has been canceled.In Sherpa religion and culture Himalayas are regarded as the god therefore taking ashes to Himalaya is against the tradition.So there was a meeting with Apa sherpa and locals representative of  Khumbu Civil society requesting him not to take Hillary ashes to Everest which he happily accepted.So in the mean time, the Khumbu Civil Society also made the resolution not to let others to make the Everest as a pubilicity tool. all the for the climbers. Take care Nyima

I was a bit surprised when I saw the original report. Summits are considered sacred and it is not customary to even stand on the true summit so this was a bit unusual. AFP News Agency also reported today and quoted Dawa Steven Sherpa who is co-leading the expedition with Apa Sherpa that :

“We met with a citizens’ committee here and they talked to us about the ashes. The old lamas said that it would be inauspicious to take the ashes to a holy place,” said expedition organiser Dawa Steven Sherpa. “There were also concerns that placing Hillary’s ashes on the summit could set a precedent, with other people wanting their ashes also to be scattered there,”

It now appears his ashes will be stored temporarily in a monastery, later spread in a memorial in the village where he established one of his his first school, Khumjung.

Most climbers have now been away from home for two weeks. Some are in base camp, a few still in Kathmandu and most are in between. As both base camps fill up, teams will conduct their final Puja, review gear yet again and start their initial acclimatization rotations into the Icefall and on to at least Camp 1.

Everest 2010 is in full swing!

Climb on!

Alan

Alzheimer’s Note
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