Into the Icefall

It is getting busy! Climbers finally started going through the Icefall on Thursday, Nepal time. It is always surprising during the first trip to see where the route goes. Climbers look for the milestones: the Prayer Flags, the Popcorn, the Football Field, Vertical Ladders. At each break, they look ahead in vain for the top but are rewarded with a full layout of Everest Base Camp down below.

Once again, we are reminded of the dangers of the Icefall with this report from Adventure Consultants just a few hours ago. It is the Blog of the Day:

As Vanessa and I were entering a section known as the pop corn we encountered a few very scary moments (the others were ahead). There was suddenly an enormous crash of ice right beside us, the ground shook and a powder cloud erupted. An entire crevasse bridge crashed into the churning spacey and unknown abyss adjacent to our position. This in turn created a domino effect and moments later the next enormous crevasse bridge collapsed even closer to us.

This concertina effect continued with bridges collapsing in rapid succession ever closer to us. The expletives coming out of my mouth are not repeatable and the sight of the ice churning like a giant rotary washer at our feet was horrifically and mesmerizing horrendous. Where to go ? no where to run! Then just as the bridge we were on was next in line for the chop and churn it suddenly with large blocks crashing into the bridge at our feet. Out of here time and fast as eh! No objections from Vanessa. Bloody hell mate, does it get closer.

With this in mind, yet another expedition, this time Peak Freaks, is looking to minimize trips through the Icefall. Becky and Tim Rippel, who always have some of the dispatches from Everest, reported today:

Tomorrow is a rest day for everyone and then the next day (April 16), the team will going up Kala Pattar (5,545 metres/18,192 ft). A non-technical peak offering magnificent views of Everest and neighbouring peaks.  It is pretty close to the elevation of Camp 1 so this will give them some altitude gain and eliminating having to make two trips to Camp 1 reducing their time in the icefall. Plus it works as a very rewarding mental preparedness manoeuvre.

Sherpas have the well-earned reputation for being super human. However, John Furneaux guiding the No Guts Know Glory team tells us a little about his team:

Dawa, Mingma and Ten Dorje Sherpa have been carrying big loads for many years. As residents of the Himalaya, their bodies are better acclimated for the hard work of climbing at high altitude,” said John, Canada West Everest Expedition Guide. “But they must also rest significantly, the altitude effects them too, especially when they move too fast. After Saturday’s carry, they will rest for a few days, minimum, in base camp. They have also been going up and down on the same day, so their activities are helping them build strength for later efforts.

Well said.

If you are curious if the teams on the north side felt the recent deadly earthquake in Tibet, Dan Mazur of SummitClimb reports they did not feel it at base camp. They have made a day trek to interim camp and are now leaving for several days at Advanced base Camp on the north.

Well, teams are moving up the mountain on both sides. Again, it will be quiet for the next few days since they will not post extensive dispatches. I will also take a day or so away to do some climbing of my own. But will post a weekend update then back to daily updates early next week.

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Climb On!

Alan