The Rules of Antarctica

Great news – it looks like we will be flying out late Saturday afternoon November 27 to Union Glacier! The big Ill, store as the ilyushin 76 jet is often called, click made trip yesterday and today and the weather looks good for tomorrow, But, as always, this is subject to change.

So with this as the base plan, today was a day of hectic last minute rushed activities. It started with a briefing at Antarctica Logistics and Expeditions (ALE), more in a moment, then packing our expedition packs to be loaded on the Ill later tonight and the rest of day wondering what we forgot!

As I was rushing through parts of the day, I could actually feel the adrenal pumping though my system. I typed this dispatch from my hotel room on my MacBook – a luxury considering my future dispatches will be much shorter; sometimes voice or pecked out on a tiny PDA – assuming everything works!

I loaded my pack with all my gear except for what I will wear on the 4 hour flight across the Drake Passage. Our flying clothes will be full Antarctica layers from wool base layers to full down jackets. This is so when we land, we will be prepared for temps below zero and/or high winds. Yesterday it was -16 at the blue ice runway. The jet can land in winds up to 30 knots so stepping off the plane could be a shock.

Once at ALE’s Union Glacier camp, we will probably spend the night before taking a significantly smaller Twin Otter prop plane to Vinson Base camp. At that point, we leave the world of mechanical travel behind as the packs are hoisted and sleds attached – to us.

A bit more on the briefing. Before visiting Antarctica in any capacity (ski, climb, penguin watching) everyone must be briefed. Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions (ALE) manages that show and takes their job quite seriously. ALE runs the flights and the Union Glacier camp. Our climb is led by IMG’s Phil Eshler. Today our team was briefed by one of ALE founders, Peter McDowell.

Around 50 people attended the briefing. A large Chinese team, The Norwegian Christian Eide skiing to the South Pole, Guy Cotter and his Adventure Consultant’s team skiing the last degree to the Pole, Wally Berg taking two people to Vinson and a few more. The room was full and attentive throughout the 2 hour presentation.

Peter covered the gamut from frostbite to flights. But he spent most of his time on Antarctic etiquette. And I am not talking about which fork to use for salad!

Antarctica is considered a pristine place and has areas managed or claimed by seven countries but no one country actually owns it. All abide by the Antarctic Treaty System established in 1959 where Antarctica is a zone of peace and science. All visitors are bound by the rules of the y. I found it interesting that some (many) people and countries frown on what we are doing compared to the scientific missions. So it that light, climbers are held to the strictest of standards of the “Leave no Trace” ethos.

These are a few of the outtakes from today’s briefing:

Antarctic Wildlife

• Do not feed, touch, or handle birds or seals, or approach or photograph them in ways that cause them to alter their behavior. Special care is needed when animals are breeding or molting.

Protected Areas

• A variety of areas in the Antarctic have been afforded special protection because of their particular ecological, scientific, historic, or other values. Entry into certain areas may be prohibited except in accordance with a permit issued by an appropriate national authority. Activities in and near designated Historic Sites and Monuments and certain other areas may be subject to special restrictions.

Scientific Research

• Do not interfere with or remove scientific equipment or marker posts, and do not disturb experimental study sites, field camps, or supplies.

KEEP ANTARCTICA PRISTINE

• Antarctica remains relatively pristine, the largest wilderness area on earth. It has not yet been subjected to large scale human perturbations.
• Do not dispose of litter or garbage on land. Open burning is prohibited.
• Do not disturb or pollute lakes or streams. Any materials discarded at sea must be disposed of properly.
• Do not paint or engrave names or graffiti on rocks or buildings.
• Do not collect or take away biological or geological specimens or man-made artifacts as souvenirs, including rocks, bones, eggs, fossils, and parts or contents of buildings.

All common sense but must be said. All of our solid waste and most liquid will be returned to Punta Arenas. Of note we will carry WAG bags and pack them out ourselves similar to Denali and the latest practice on Everest.

A bit on our team. In addition to our two guides, Phil and Aaron from IMG, there are 8 climbers, including one woman, from all walks of life and the globe. A very diverse and interesting group. We are all getting to know one another over meals, walks and some shopping!

That’s all for now. Perhaps one last update before I leave for the airport and even then you never know if the Ill will actually take-off. If the winds pick up or snows blow in, it will be another day. We are living “hurry up and wait”

Yes, this is what creating memories is all about.

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything