Everest 2012: Lukla, the World’s Most Dangerous Airport

Teams continue to make good progress as they arrive in Kathmandu, fly to Lukla and begin the trek to Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side. Again, no activity on the north until April 1, at the earliest.

Right now the biggest issue most teams face is the uncertainty of the weather impacting their flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. It is very common to have several days of low clouds or afternoon thunderstorms delaying or canceling flights. This past fall, thousands of trekkers were stranded when poor weather stopped flights out for about a week.

The normal schedule is a 4:00AM wake-up call at the hotel in Kathmandu, a somewhat organized chaos to get to the domestic terminal of the airport – along with what can be an overwhelming number of duffel bags, then to proceed through “security” to the waiting room only to be told your flight is delayed or canceled thus returning to the hotel to start all over the next day!

But thus far, this is not the case and no problems have been reported.

Lukla is notorious as one of, if not, the most dangerous airport in the world. Now named the Tenzing-Hillary Airport, the runway is only 1500′ long. While paved today, the first time I landed there in 1997, cows grazed on the grass runway. When a plane approached a kid was sent to shoo off the bovine from the runway! While improved, it is not a whole lot different today.

However, the most unsettling part of landing at Lukla is the 2,000′ drop-off at the end of the runway. If a pilot misjudges their approach, the plane can hit the hillside. There have been many crashes at this airport including one in August 2010 where 14 people died. Needless to say, most climbers and trekkers know of this danger (not sure about family back home) and are quite relieved to make their aircraft style hard landing marking their arrival. All this said, with all the traffic, the percentage of incidents is still quite low; if that is any comfort!

This is a video I took in 2008 landing in Lukla

Lukla is located at 9,400′ and marks the demarcation from traveler to trekker. From this point on to base camp, it is all dirt paths, no cars, motorcycles, bicycles – just feet and hoof! Teams have a quick snack at one of the many teahouses in Lukla, don their day packs and head to their first night in the Khumbu at Phakding or Monjo – small villages nestled in the Himalayas. You loose altitude, about 600 feet – the last time this will happen until you descend from an acclimatization climb in a couple of weeks! For the first time, you feel like your Everest quest has really begun …

The next stop is Namche. I like Phil Purdey’s description of his trek to Namche.

I am now in Namche Bazar. The walk was just breath taking on the trek there. The path gradually winds through a number of small villages and steadily climbs up to 3520 Metres. The suspension bridges over the ravines are breath taking and at times quite dangerous. They move significantly when crossing, there are bolts missing and the distance to the ground significant. What is more a worry is when a Yak crosses the bridge at the same time. They have big horns and are temperamental. I have taken a number of pictures of the views. I cannot find words that sum up the beauty of landscape. The high mountains, the fast flowing rivers and the brightly painted Nepalese houses. I will try and send a couple of photos.

Arriving in Namche marks another milestone. Trekkers are often warned of the infamous “Namche Hill”, a long sustained elevation gain that can be very hot and trying. But once you see the white stuppa marking the entrance to this Khumbu capital, all thoughts of stress melt away. You walk the narrow dirt  streets, stepping aside for the Zos and some yaks (this is the first time you really see yaks), hear the bells, chants from the nearby Monastery and truly feel like you have arrived!

Well until you see signs for wifi; you have not quite left civilization. Most people drop their pack in their hotel room and go out to explore with the first stop being the Namche Bakery. After a piece of apple pie and cup of espresso (times have changed from 1953) you start to relax. The next day, a rest day for most teams to adjust to the 12,700′ altitude, you might take a trek to the Everest View Hotel – and your first real view of Everest. Now it sinks in where you are …

Mark Schwab of the WMS team posted a nice dispatch with some great pictures.

This process will repeat over the next week or so. Eyes wide, minds opened, hearts pumping – an adventure taking shape right before our eyes.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything