Dhaulagiri
FAQ Nepal 26,795 feet 8167 meters |
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Dhaulagiri is considered
one of the 'attainable" 8000 meter mountains. I am focusing on the
Northeast Ridge since it is the normal route and the one I will use for
my 2017 attempt. I am asked many questions about climbing especially since
I am not a professional climber. So here are the most popular questions
with my answers. As always, this information is based on my experience
and are my opinions so always consult with a professional before making
any serious climbing decisions.
About DhaulagiriQ: Where is Dhaulagiri?A: It is located in west-central Nepal about 50 miles from Kathmandu. It is the 7th highest mountain on earth at 26,795' and has a reputation as one of the "achievable" 8000m mountains. The nearest airport is Kathmandu. Most people fly into Kathmandu and take about a week by off-road vehicles and trekking to reach base camp. Some teams will helicopter in and out of base camp saving time but then spend time acclimatizing before going higher. Q: When is it usually will climb? A: As with most Himalayan peaks, pre and post monsoon but Spring is popular since every day it gets warmer with less threat of snow. The Fall season is just the opposite with colder days and increasingly unstable weather. I will climb in April. Of the 480 total summits, 310 have occured in Spring and 156 in Autumn. Q: I understand that Dhaulagiri is an easy 8000m climb. A: It is not 'easy' - no 8000 meter mountain is easy. It is a serious high-altitude mountain where climbers lose their lives every year. I will update this answer after the climb. Q: How does Dhaulagiri compare with Denali or Aconcagua? A: The climbing is significantly more difficult than either of these mountains. It is a longer climb but similar to Denali in spirit in that you climb on steep snow slopes most of the time but obviously at a significantly higher altitude. Also you are using fixed ropes continuously from Camp 1 on. Finally on Denali you are pulling a sled with personal and group gear whereas on Dhaulagiri Sherpas usually carry the tents and stoves while you carry your personal gear including food, clothing and sleeping bag and pads. This depends on your expedition logistics. It is measurably more difficult than Aconcagua due to the snow, weather and length of the expedition. Huascaran is a better comparison than Aconcagua. I will update this answer after the climb. Q: How does Dhaulagiri compare with Everest or other 8,000m peaks? A: It is a great training climb for aspiring Everest climbers to see how their body reacts to high altitude - 8,000m. I will update this answer after the climb. Q: Is a Dhaulagiri climb dangerous? A: Absolutely. You should only attempt Dhaulagiri if you have the proper experience and logistics for emergency situations. Most deaths are a result of avalanches and falls but the weather and altitude takes it's toll. Q: How many people had summited and how many people had died trying? A: According to the Himalayan Database 64 people have died with about 480 summits through the Autumn of 2016. The success rate is about 60%. About two thirds summit without using supplemental oxygen. The first ascent was on May 13,1960 by a Swiss/Austrian/Nepali expedition of Kurt Diemberger, P. Diener, E. Forrer, A. Schelbert, Nyima Dorje Sherpa, Nawang Dorje Sherpa. Training, Gear & Communication:Q: How will you you train for this climb? Everest legend Tom Hornbein explained it to the American Lung Association this way: The lower oxygen stimulates chemoreceptors that initiate an increase in breathing, resulting in a lowering of the partial pressure of CO2 and hence more alkaline blood pH. The kidneys begin to unload bicarbonate to compensate. Though this adaptation can take many days, up to 80% occurs just in the first 48 to 72 hours. There are many other physiologic changes going on, among them the stimulus of low oxygen to release the hormone, erythropoietin to stimulate more red blood cell production, a physiological and still acceptable form of blood doping that enhances endurance performance at low altitudes. Adaptive changes are not always good for one’s health. Some South American high altitude residents can have what’s called chronic mountain sickness, resulting from too many red blood cells; their blood can be up to 84-85% red blood cells. The increased blood viscosity and sometimes associated pulmonary hypertension can result in right heart failure. You cannot do much to acclimatize at low altitudes but there are companies that claim to help the acclimatization process through specially designed tents that simulate the reduced oxygen levels at higher elevations. I have no personal experience with these systems but you can find more details at the Hypoxico website. They cost about $7,000 or can be rented for about $170 a week. Outside Magazine posted an article in 2013 questioning their effectiveness. Q: What kind of equipment will you you use? Q: Will you use a Sat Phone? Expedition BasicsQ: Which route is most popular?
My 2017 Climb PlanQ: Did you you summit?A: TBD :) Q: Why did you you choose Dreamers Destinations as a logistics
service? Q: Will you you use bottled oxygen? Bottom LineDhaulagiri should be a nice climb. The route is straightforward yet any 8000 meter climb has real and deadly challenges. |
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