I climbed 7 of the 8 "7" Summits in 11 months in 2011. So why 8? Read the answer here.
This page provides a quick comparison that may be helpful
for climbers with experience on one and considering another.
Also see my comparison of some of the
worlds most popular mountains also
an excellent interview of my 7 Summits climb |
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Kosciuszko
(7,310') |
Carstensz
Pyramid
(16,023') |
Vinson
(16,067) |
Elbrus
(18,513') |
Kilimanjaro
(19,340') |
Denali
(20,320) |
Aconcagua
(22,834') |
Everest
(29,035') |
Time in nearest large
city |
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Route commented on and date climbed |
Kosciuszko Track from Thredbo
October 2011 |
North Face
October 2011 |
West Face, Branscomb Glacier
December 2010 |
North side,
West Summit Mikelchiran
Glacier
August 2011 |
Machame
September 2011 |
West Buttress
July 2011 |
Polish Traverse
January 2011 |
Southeast Ridge
April 2011 |
Headline |
The "original" 7th Summit by Dick Bass but
too easy for Morrow/Messner thus Carstensz. |
Most technical of the 7 and just getting there is
the challenge. |
The most remote of the 7 Summits - pristine and perfect
with endless ice |
Climbing from the north is more a cultural experience than climbing. Harder than southside. |
The roof of Africa with a sense of urgency for the
receding glaciers |
Some of the best views and worst weather of the 7 |
Often underestimated by the 70% who don't summit the highest peak
outside the Himalaya |
The top of the world and deserving of every accolade over the century |
Approach to base Camp (BC) |
drive to trailhead, ski lift to 5,000' |
Jungle trek for 5 days or helicopter |
plane from Union Glacier |
long, rough 5 hour drive on 4WD roads |
2 hours drive to trailhead |
plane from Talkeetna to Kahiltna Glacier |
Easy, 3 day trek to BC |
Easy, 7 day trek to BC in Khumbu |
Overall Difficulty |
Easy - A walk-up on dirt trails
but can be a challenge in cold wintry weather with trail finding in whiteouts. |
Technical with rock climbing, altitude can be issue for some. |
Moderate - no "climbing" required other than headwall,
heavy loads up and down high up requires excellent fitness |
Moderate - no "climbing" required. Carrying personal
loads to High Camp requires good fitness |
Easy - mostly on well worn trails but altitude
can be difficult |
Moderate - no "climbing" required other than headwall,
heavy loads up and down high up requires excellent fitness |
Moderate - no "climbing" involved, altitude can bother
some who go too fast. |
Very hard - altitude above 25000' wears on you, 8 weeks
away. |
Technical Difficulty (ice or rock climbing, need for
axes, harnesses, slings, protection, etc) |
None. nothing special required |
Moderate - rock climbing, rappelling and
a Tyrolean Traverse makes it interesting |
Easy. Harness, crampons, roped up for crevasse
and fall safety. Pull sleds with gear. |
Easy. Harness, crampons, roped up for crevasse and fall
safety |
None. nothing special required. Maybe microspikes if
summit is snow covered. |
Simple. Harness, crampons, roped up for crevasse
and fall safety. Pull sleds with gear. Headwall can challenge some. |
Easy, crampons in one short section (Canaleta) on summit
push |
moderate due to altitude in yellow band, Hillary Step.
Harness, axe, crampons, roped up for crevasse and fall safety |
Altitude Considerations |
not an issue for most people |
Must acclimatize properly and watch for
AMS. |
Must acclimatize properly and watch for AMS. |
Must acclimatize properly and watch for AMS. |
High altitude gain so must acclimatize
gradually with no rush by guides and watch for AMS. |
Must acclimatize gradually with rest days
at 14K and 17K Watch for AMS. |
Serious above C3. Must acclimatize gradually and not
rush. Watch for AMS, HAPE and HACE |
Extreme. Serious, especially above C2. Use supplemental
Oxygen. Must acclimatized properly and watch for AMS, HAPE, HACE |
Weather (all mountains can be cold, windy and constantly
change!!) |
+70F day, can be windy and cold in winter
with whiteouts |
Hot, humid and rain in the jungle, cold
on the summit push |
+60F day, -30F night. Can be extremely wet |
+70F day, 0F night on summit. we had light winds |
+60F day, 0F night. Can be very wet |
+40F day, -10F night. we had no snow and light winds.
Can be brutally cold!! |
+50F day, 0F night but winds are the issue and can be beyond cold on summit night. |
+90F day, -30F night above 23K. Occasional very high
winds, moderate to heavy snowfall |
base Camp altitude |
4,528' |
14,000' at Lakes Camp |
7,300' on Bascomb Glacier |
8,200' on Emanuil's Glade |
5905' at Machame gate |
7,200' at Kahiltna Glacier |
13,880 Campo Argentina |
17,500' on Khumbu Glacier |
Camp 1 and average climb time from previous Camp |
N/A |
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9,100' - 4 hours |
12,000' - 4 hours |
10,000' at Machame Hut - 6 hours |
7,800' - 3 hours |
16,075 - 3 hours |
19,500' - 4 hours via Icefall after acclimation |
Camp 2 and average climb time from previous Camp |
N/A |
N/A |
13,200' - 6 hours |
N/A |
12,200' at Shira Hut - 5 hours |
11,200' - 4 hours |
17,500' (Camp 1.5) - 4 hours |
21,000' - 3 hours |
Camp 3 and average climb time from previous Camp |
N/A |
N/A |
N/A |
N/A |
13,000' at Barranco Hut - 6 hours. Karanga
Valley 13,000' - 4 hours |
14,200' - 3 hours |
19,500' - 3 hours |
23,500' - 5 hours |
Camp 4 and average climb time from previous Camp |
N/A |
N/A |
N/A |
N/A |
15,000' at Barufu Hut - 4 hours |
17,200' - 6 hours |
N/A |
26,300' - 4 hours |
Summit and average round trip climb time |
7,310' - 1 hours summit round trip. 8.6
miles |
16,023' - 12 hours round trip |
16,067' - 12 hours summit round trip |
18,513' - 12 hours summit round trip |
19,340' - 9 hours summit round trip |
20,320'- 9 hours summit round trip |
22,842 - 10 hours summit round trip |
29,035 - 18 hours summit round trip |
Special gear required or suggested |
WInd jacket, good hiking shoes |
Full technical harness, carabineers, jumar |
full protection for extreme cold and winds |
protection for high winds and cold |
sturdy high top hiking boots plus excellent rain pants and jacket |
excellent fitting pack for heavy loads |
excellent wind protection |
Full down suit or jacket/pants |
Special training required or suggested |
Good fitness but not over the top |
Excellent aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). |
Excellent aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Strong
stomach & back muscles for loads. |
Good aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Strong
stomach & back muscles for loads. |
Aerobic training especially for those who have never climbed above 14,000' |
Excellent aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Strong
stomach & back muscles for loads. |
Excellent aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). |
Outstanding aerobic conditioning (running,
cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads. Strong thigh and calf muscles
for long days. Mental toughness |
Low point of the mountain or climb |
can be crowded in summer with over 100,000 people climbing it each year. |
The uncertainty of the logistics and the bribes required for the locals |
very long waits for plane to and from Union Glacier |
High Camp is very dirty with widespread waste |
cloudy, misty days that block views. Very dusty otherwise |
trudging up to Basin Camp at 14K with full
loads and sleds. Few nice views ... yet |
dirt, dust and wind the entire climb! |
Physical and mental pressure towards end of climb. Long
time away. Icefall can be risky but awesome |
Unique aspect of the mountain or climb |
The summit view is fantastic overlooking the Snowy Mountain Range |
The rock climbing is excellent. Plus the interaction with the tribes is eye opening. |
Antarctica is one of the most amazing places
on earth with pristine and prefect views of endless ice. |
It is Russia! More of a cultural experience than climbing
but summit day was excellent with outstanding views |
Seeing the disappearing snows and glaciers from the summit. Also African culture |
incredible views of Alaska. Flight onto Kahiltna Glacier.
True snow Camping with snow walls, trapped in tent for days! |
High altitude with snow and easy logistics.
Argentinean culture is special |
A true, long, expedition, fixed
ropes, Lhotse Face, South Col, Summit night. A lifetime experience |
Estimated Annual Climbers, % success |
10,000 annual @ 80%+ summits |
500 annual @ 90%+ summits |
300 annual @ 95%+ summits |
Best guess 5000+ from south with 50% success, 1000 north @ 40% |
25,000 annual @ 66%+ summits |
1,200 annual @ 50% summits |
5000 annual @ 30% summits |
600 annual @ 80% summits |
|
Kosciuszko
(7,310') |
Carstensz
Pyramid
(16,023') |
Vinson
(16,067) |
Elbrus
(18,513') |
Kilimanjaro
(19,340') |
Denali
(20,320') |
Aconcagua
(22,834') |
Everest
(29,035') |