| I have been very fortunate to climb some of the
world's most popular mountains. This pages provides a quick comparison
of some of these Hills that may be helpful for climbers with
experience on one and considering another. Also
see my comparison of the 7 Summits |
| |
Rainier
(14,410') |
Denali
(20,320') |
Ama Dablam
(22,494') |
Aconcagua
(22,902') |
Broad
Peak
(26,401) |
Cho Oyu
(26,907') |
Everest
(29,035') |
Time in nearest
large city |
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Route commented on and date climbed |
Ingraham Glacier
July 2004 |
West Buttress
July 2011 |
Southwest Ridge
September 2000 |
Polish Traverse
January 2011 |
West Ridge
June 2006 |
Northwest Ridge
September 1998 |
Southeast Ridge
April 2011 |
Headline |
Not your typical American 14er |
Some of the best views and worst weather |
Something for everyone: rock, snow ad ice |
Often underestimated by the 70% who don't summit the highest peak
outside the Himalaya |
Starts steep and never lets up with amazing views of K2 |
The perfect introduction to 8000m climbing |
The top of the world and deserving of every accolade over the century |
Approach to base Camp (BC) |
drive to trailhead! |
plane from Talkeetna to Kahiltna Glacier |
easy, 5 days trek in Khumbu |
easy, 3 day trek to BC |
long & harsh, 6 days mostly glacier walking |
easy, 4 day drive to BC, 1 day to ABC |
easy, 7 day trek to BC in Khumbu |
Overall Difficulty |
Moderate - short "climbing" section, little
danger, altitude and 14 hour day can bother some not ready for it. |
Moderate - no "climbing" required other
than headwall, heavy loads up and down high up requires excellent
fitness |
Very Hard - technical rock and ice skills
at high altitude. Loads can be heavy going up. If inexperienced in
rock climbing, Yellow Tower can be very hard. |
Moderate - no "climbing" involved, altitude
can bother some who go too fast. |
Hard - high altitude, 5 week minimum,
continuously steep, harsh weather, long approach. |
Hard - high altitude, 6 week climb, heavy
loads down climbing from C3 after the summit |
Very hard - altitude above 25000' wears
on you, 8 weeks away. |
Technical Difficulty (ice or rock climbing,
need for axes, harnesses, slings, protection, etc) |
easy. Harness, crampons, roped up for
crevasse and fall safety |
easy. Harness, crampons, roped
up for crevasse and fall safety. Pull sled with gear |
Difficult, 5.7 rock climbing, 60 degree
ice |
easy, crampons in one short section |
moderate. used fixed ropes, ice axe, harness,
crampons. Summit is very steep snow slope |
moderate due to altitude in yellow band.
Harness, axe, crampons, roped up for crevasse and fall safety |
moderate due to altitude in yellow band,
Hillary Step. Harness, axe, crampons, roped up for crevasse and fall
safety |
Altitude Considerations |
If 1st time at 14K, can bother some people |
Must acclimatize gradually with
rest days at 14K and 17K Watch for AMS. |
Serious, especially above C2. Many people
rush up. Must acclimatize properly and watch for AMS, HAPE, HACE |
Serious, especially above C3. Must
acclimatize gradually and not rush. Watch for AMS, HAPE and HACE |
Serious, especially above C3. Use supplemental
Oxygen. Must acclimatize properly and watch for AMS, HAPE, HACE |
Serious, especially above C2. Use supplemental
Oxygen. Must acclimatize properly and watch for AMS, HAPE, HACE |
Serious, especially above C2. Use supplemental
Oxygen. Must acclimatized properly and watch for AMS, HAPE, HACE |
Weather (all mountains can be cold, windy
and constantly change!!) |
+50F day, 0F night. we had no snow and
light winds |
+40F day, -10F night. we had no snow and
light winds. Can be brutally cold!! |
+50F day, -20F night on summit. we had
light snow and light winds |
+40F day, 0F night. Constant high winds.
no precipitation |
+90F day, -30F night at altitude. Can
have strong winds, heavy snow for days on end!! |
+80F day, -20F night high up. High winds
at C3, moderate snowfall throughout |
+90F day, -30F night above 23K. Occasional
very high winds, moderate to heavy snowfall |
base Camp altitude |
5,420 at Paradise |
7,200 at Kahiltna Glacier |
17,000 |
13,880 Campo Argentina |
15,500 on the glacier |
18,500 Advanced base Camp |
17,500 on Khumbu Glacier |
Camp 1 and average climb time from previous
Camp |
10,100 - Camp Muir
5 hours |
7,800 - 3 hours |
18, 500 - 4 hours |
16,075 - 3 hours |
19,000 - 5 hours |
20,600 - 6 hours |
19,500 - 4 hours via Icefall after acclimation |
Camp 2 and average climb time from previous
Camp |
N/A |
11,200 - 4 hours |
20,000 - 6 hours |
17,500 (Camp 1.5) - 4 hours |
21,000 - 4 hours |
22,000 - 4 hours |
21,000 - 3 hours |
Camp 3 and average climb time from previous
Camp |
N/A |
14,200 - 3 hours |
21,500 - 4 hours |
19,500 - 3 hours |
23,000 - 6 hours |
24,500 - 4 hours |
23,500 - 5 hours |
Camp 4 and average climb time from previous
Camp |
N/A |
17,200 - 6 hours |
N/A |
N/A |
24,500 - 5 hours (not always used) |
N/A |
26,300 - 4 hours |
Summit and average round trip climb time |
14,417 - 9 hours summit round
trip |
20,320 - 9 hours summit round trip |
22,494 - 8 hours summit round trip |
22,902 - 10 hours summit round
trip |
26,401 - 10 hours true summit round trip |
26,907 - 12 hours summit round trip |
29,035 - 18 hours summit round trip |
Special gear required or suggested |
earplugs for RMI hut |
excellent fitting pack for heavy loads |
Full down suit or jacket/pants |
excellent wind protection |
Full down suit or jacket/pants AND excellent
wind protection |
Full down suit or jacket/pants |
Full down suit or jacket/pants |
Special training required or suggested |
Excellent aerobic conditioning (running,
cycling). |
Excellent aerobic conditioning (running,
cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads. |
Outstanding aerobic conditioning (running,
cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads. Strong thigh
and calf muscles for long days. |
Excellent aerobic conditioning (running,
cycling). |
Outstanding aerobic conditioning (running,
cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads. |
Outstanding aerobic conditioning (running,
cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads. |
Outstanding aerobic conditioning (running,
cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads. Strong thigh
and calf muscles for long days. |
Low point of the mountain or climb |
RMI Hut - noisy, smelly. |
trudging up to Basin Camp at 14K
with full loads and sleds. Few nice views ... yet |
Yellow Tower and snow couloir can be exhausting |
dirt, dust and wind the entire climb! |
Very remote. BC is harsh. Never ending
steep snow slopes. |
Scree climb to C1. Ugly BC on boulder
field but great views of Cho Oyu |
Physical and mental pressure towards end
of climb. Long time away. Icefall can be risky but awesome |
Unique aspect of the mountain or climb |
great views, big crevasses, wonderful
climb for first snow and glacier experience |
incredible views of Alaska. Flight onto
Kahiltna Glacier. True snow Camping with snow walls, trapped in tent
for days! |
A true Himalayan mountaineer's mountain
with rock, ice, snow, altitude and Sherpas! Wonderful base Camp environment. |
High altitude with snow and not a lot
of logistics. Argentinean culture is special |
The best mountain views in the world
(imho). Great satisfaction reaching each Camp. And, of course, K2
is next door! |
Seeing Tibet. An 8,000M mountain. Easy
approach. Views of Everest from true summit |
A true expedition, long time, fixed ropes,
Lhotse Face, South Col, Summit night. A lifetime experience |
| |
Rainier
(14,410') |
Denali
(20,320') |
Ama Dablam
(22,494') |
Aconcagua
(22,902') |
Broad
Peak
(26,401) |
Cho Oyu
(26,907') |
Everest
(29,035') |
