I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have climbed it three other times (all from Nepal) - 2002, 2003 and 2008 each time reaching just below the Balcony at about 27,500' (8400 meters) before health, weather or my own judgment caused me to turn back. I attempted Lhotse twice - 2015 and 2016. When not climbing, I cover the Everest season from my home in Colorado as I did for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016 , 2017, 2018 and now the 2019 season.
This page is about my 2008 climb.
My Memories Are Everything® climbs are to raise awareness and research money for Alzheimer's Disease. My mom, Ida, passed away from Alzheimer's in 2009.
Alzheimer’s disease is the 6th leading cause of death in the United States, with another person newly diagnosed every 69 seconds. It affects more than 5 million people in the United States and over 25 million worldwide. The burden on families and family caregivers are significant both personally as well as financially. With our aging population, these issues are increasing dramatically. Today, there is no reliable method of early detection and no cure. And there is hope with research.
100% of your donations got to your selected non-profit and none to Alan, climbing expenses or supporters.
I climbed Everest twice - in 2002 and again in 2003 - from the
south side. I made it to about 27,000 feet both years before
health, weather or my own judgment caused me to turn back. I
returned in April and May of 2008 to attempt the summit from
the South Col. I joined a small team of 3 climbers.
2008 was a unique year on Everest since the Chinese took the
Olympic torch to the summit. However extensive controversy occurred
when the Chinese asked all north side expeditions to not step
on the mountain until May 10th - very late to execute a successful
acclimatizion schedule and summit. So at the last minute we changed
to the south side or from Nepal. But even in Nepal, the Chinese
held tight control with communication and climbing restrictions
that almost put the entire season in jeopardy.
My training was more intensive than ever. For my previous climbs
in 2002 and 2003, I trained on my Colorado mountains as well
lots of exercise. For 2008, in addition to my 14ers, I incorporated
four high altitude climbs over the previous 12 months. They included
Denali, Shishapangma, Aconcagua and Orizaba.
Complete live coverage posted during the 2008
climb can be viewed on the dispatch page.
By way of my own climbing experiences (this was my 6th 8000m
climb) and my Everest coverage each year since 2004, I tried
to learn what allows for a successful summit. In consultation
with other climbers, I had a good plan for 2008 that took into
account six critical areas: acclimatization, nutrition, hydration,
oxygen, clothing and rest - plus mental toughness.
Please see my completely new Everest
Frequently Asked Questions page with a new section on the
I have written a very extensive and detailed
recap of my summit experience plus a many
exclusive hi-resolution pictures taken during the 2008 climb.
It is in PDF form and can be downloaded from this link:
2008: Summit of Politics